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Wooden 3D Topographical Map

by:QY Precision      2019-10-25
This map is very easy to make, no need for CNC machines, and a great excuse to mess things up.
I originally wanted to make one of them through CNC, either cut out or laser cut, but each one I saw was too expensive and the finished product always looked too small.
The price seems to be different from $300.
Depending on the size and size, the price is $1300.
I asked a local artist about the laser burning the image to a piece of wood and I received a $843 quote for a 2\'x3 picture! Nope.
Then I started thinking about setting up my own \"maslow\" CNC to do the job (
By the way, it\'s totally worth seeing)
But I was surprised to get a new Ryobi speed saw as a gift, which changed my priority.
The total cost of this project is just over $120 and if I use cheaper wood and only buy the paint I need I could have done it cheaper.
I probably brought a total of 10-
15 hours including shopping, etc. I have never done such a thing before and have no machine shop with countless tools.
This is also my first explanation. Tools used:-Rotary tool -free/gift -(
I am using Ryobi speed saw but it is recommended to use something with speed control)-Wood mill bit -$15. 00-
Paint brush-$5. 00-
Some kind of projector-free -
I use the Moto Z play projector I already have, but you can borrow a normal projector that is connected to the laptopor or even the old projector to appreciate the nostalgic type. Materials used :-
1 x 4\'x8\' board for red oak plywood, about $65. 00 I think-Acrylic Paint (
I played a mess on the acheapo variety pack but ended up using only two colors: black and cyan)-about $15. 00.
The first step is to obtain terrain/sound images of the Lake/water body/terrain features of your choice from the Internet.
Google soon found the lake I was going to make.
If you can\'t find your map, try calling the local town hall/city government and they may have something.
The more grades you have on your image, the more wood layers you need, so it would be easier to consider skipping the layers.
There are a lot of different types of plywood to choose from, I don\'t know.
Visit several lumberjacks as Home Depot may not carry anything exotic.
In theory, you can also make it from sheets such as ABS, transparent or smoked plexiglass.
I used a 1/4 \"4\'x8\' red oak plywood and cut it into four pieces 3\'x2 in the store because my image has 5 layers, one of which is very
I made the final fifth floor with a piece of scrap.
It\'s worth talking to employees who know which wood is more durable, easier to use, and whether they bend with temperature, etc.
One more thing to consider is how many layers you will have, which will make the finished product thick.
This one is about 1 \"thick and can seem to hang on the wall.
You can then project the lake image to each layer using OHP or your chosen multimedia projector and transfer the map to plywood using a pencil.
If you really want to punish yourself, you can even use vellum to transfer images from a print output like Indy Anna Jones.
Keep in mind that each drawing needs to be drawn only once for each depth.
This step is self-explanatory, but progress is slow.
The speed saw tends to try to skip, so I recommend using something with speed control.
You will notice that I tend to burn my images because I go too slowly with tools that are too fast.
I had to be so slow to avoid skipping so learn from my mistakes!
I actually dug the place where the burn was and I would keep it if I dyed instead of drawing.
Remember the round tool mark when you cut a layer.
They will jump out, obviously.
You can use a small file to expand some edges, but I didn\'t bother, I just enlarged the small tight part as needed to reduce the circle.
Need some art permits, don\'t you?
No one sees how accurate it is better than Google. . . haha.
I tried removing burrs with an eraser and it worked fine, then I switched to a file that worked better.
The hardest part of the building is deciding to paint, dye or not use anything at all.
I decided to paint but I could paint it all in one color or with a different dark stain on each layer.
I can use different wood types to indicate the depth that would be cool to recall now.
Maybe next time.
It\'s good to draw because it\'s cheap and really popular.
Afterwards, you can also change your perception of color. . .
As you can see, I ended up doing it.
I used a bunch of paint for the first time, but based on my previous tests I couldn\'t seem to reach the correct gradient, even though I was writing down the combination.
The second time I only used two colors, a whole bunch of cyan, and then I added black to each layer, which greatly simplifies things.
To determine the color gradient, I recommend using a gradient generator like ColorHexa. com.
I find the exact color by downloading an app (like a color picker) that will tell you the RGB or hex code of the base color based on the photo, I . E. cyan for me.
The finished product is a bit less powerful, but I think the balance is better.
Before assembly, I decided to polish all the edges with a rotating tool to remove the burn on the look and any paint on the edges.
Drawing the edges also looks good, but eventually removing all the paint from the edges makes it easier to remove any stray burrs and gives it a brand new CNC look.
I decided to screw the 4 underlayers together from the back, so if someone wants to change the color in the future, they can easily change the color.
The top layer will eventually be screwed under the frame, so no screws/holes are shown.
I recommend drilling the guide holes for the screws to prevent cracking when the layers are clipped together and then throwing the screws in.
I used the 3/4 countersunk screw on the 9 th. Done!
I decided to keep the top floor free of stains and connections before the new owners decided to refill their walls with a top color/stain, and then, once all assembled, I polished the outer edge smooth.
I am very satisfied with the results and the new boss is very satisfied.
Tell me what you think in the comments.
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