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turn a $3 childs toy into a work of art

by:QY Precision      2019-10-16
Introduction: I have always been fascinated by 3D modeling.
This is a new and fascinating field of new era art.
One of the most attractive things about 3d modeling is to switch to a wireframe model and work in it.
This view shows all the small aspects that make up our model.
This is such a charming and beautiful working mode.
We can see how thousands of lines and faces work together to make a model of a complete skin.
When we have done enough processing on these wireframe models, we begin to see wireframes in everything we see.
In the real world, however, we have never really seen such a wire model.
So I want to take the digital wireframe model to the tangible world, and that\'s what we do.
The goal of this project is to see if we can take a $3 children\'s toy and turn it into an artwork!
I would also like to use free or open source software for this project so that anyone can recreate the process we use to create this artwork.
The project is definitely doing a lot of work, but the end result is absolutely beautiful.
I really hope that this guidance will encourage others to use technology and bring beautiful, large-scale works of art to the world! We need it!
This first step is probably one of the most important steps in the whole process.
If we can\'t capture a great 3d model then it will be shown in our final artwork.
For this step, we will use Autodesk\'s 123D capture.
This software has a desktop and mobile version, both of which are free! !
While the mobile version still seems to work fine, we decided to use the desktop version so we could use the beautiful DSLR to get the best picture possible.
What you need for this step is: I have been playing for a while and my best tips for success results are good lighting!
It will really have an impact on the quality of your 3d model.
I found that there are fewer parts missing from your final 3D model and the texture is better.
You\'ll also want to put your toy in the newspaper, and while it\'s not needed, it does help to produce the best results again.
You really have to think about how to take these photos as 123D Catch only allows you to upload 70 photos per file.
So I decided to split my shot into 3 different levels.
The first layer includes 28 pictures, the second layer includes 28 pictures, and the first layer includes 8 pictures.
I also split each level into 4 quarters and each quarter consists of 7 pictures.
The top floor will consist of 8 photos taken 45 degrees from the previous one.
Shooting with a tripod allows me to make sure that all photos are taken at the same level and also helps to track where the last photo was taken and the camera\'s moving distance for the next shot.
It also helps to make sure we don\'t have any blurry images.
It has been said before lighting is the key to this process.
So in this part of the process I have two floodlights and one setting on each side of the camera.
This ensures that we have enough lighting without shadows.
When I take pictures, I move these lights around the model.
Once we take pictures, it\'s time to upload them to the 123D capture program!
Now that we \'ve taken all the photos, it\'s time to upload them to 123D Catch!
For this step you need: you can download the desktop version of 123D capture from the link below: 123D capture download link whenever you upload the picture to 123D capture, it will upload them to the cloud in Autodesk.
This process may take a while, so please be patient.
For all the great photos you take, this could be a good time to take your own back!
It is very easy to upload your picture to 123D capture.
Just follow these simple steps!
After uploading and processing your capture, you will be notified via a desktop app or email.
Because we did such a great job setting up photo shoots, there was not much editing to do.
If for some reason some images are not stitched properly, you can check the tutorial on how to manually stitch these photos on youtube.
Since we use good lights and newspapers, I personally don\'t need to stitch in any pictures.
We have to clean up the model, though, and the capture of 123D makes it very easy.
We need to throw away the newspaper and wood that we put the bear on for camera reference.
There is a small stone behind one of the bear\'s feet and I want to throw it away.
All you need to do to delete the unwanted part of the 3D model is to Left Click, draw a loop around the unwanted material, and then click delete.
That\'s simple.
When you choose a part of the model, it becomes red.
I also found that when you approach the model part that you don\'t want to delete, switching to wire rack mode does help to distinguish between the part you want to keep and the part you want to throw away.
Check out our video and it shows you how we clean up the bear.
After you have cleaned up the model, you need to save it.
Since we are going to use 123D make in the next process, I saved it as an OBJ file.
This file is easy to read by 123D Make and beautifully transferred to this program.
Once we have the 3D model, we need to do something different to prepare to send the file to the CNC router.
123D Make is another free program for Autodesk.
With this program, we can extend our 3D model and then select the style we want to use to bring the model of our 3D digital world back to the physical world.
What you need for this step is: you can download Autodesk\'s 123D Make for free at this link.
123D Make is a very versatile program that will allow us to zoom in on our bears, create a slice structure that is interlocking, and then export all of our files to DXF, so that we can cut them out easily on the CNC machine.
It allows us to set the material thickness and enter the dimensions of the CNC workbench so that our parts can be cut easily.
It also labels all of our parts and slots, which is necessary to assemble this complex part.
I did a video browsing in the process because some parts were a bit hard to explain without actually showing it to you.
Here are the basic steps to create our 3D bear model.
* When you set the length and width of the CNC table, I like to set the output to be a little smaller than the actual cut area of the table.
So our CNC table is 48 \"x 96\" so we set the material size to 47 \"x 95 \".
This prevents the software from plugging too many pieces into your board and letting the pieces touch each edge of the plywood, resulting in errorscuts.
** I highly recommend adding a little thickness to the thickness of the material.
This thickness will determine how wide the slots are on each piece.
If you do the exact thickness, it can be painful to slide all the pieces together. We added .
02 \"to our slot size, it\'s still a bit difficult to make some of the columns slip in place.
You are playing a balance game when you adjust the number of 1st and 2nd axis slices.
We want to have a good definition of our bears without using millions of plywood.
The more slices you have to do, the harder it is to slot some slices in place, especially the columns.
We have a bear height of 72 inch, 33 horizontal blocks, 13 columns and have to use 12 OSB plywood sheets.
Now that we have created our DXF file, we need to create G-
Then we can use the code to operate the CNC machine.
What do you need for this step: * while Cambam is not necessarily \"free\", you do have 40 free use times before you have to buy it.
Once your 40 is out of use, you can purchase this item at a very reasonable price ($150. )
All of our CNC projects use it in our store and I like this software very much.
You can download it here.
It\'s time to start the CNC router and cut off all these parts!
What do you need for this step: In our last step, we created all the G-
We need to cut the code of the part for our bear.
It\'s time to delete them all.
Since each CNC router is different, we will keep this section very short.
However, there are several very important details to remember in the process.
The most important thing is to tag everything!
Label each product when it falls off the router, and label it on each slot.
If you are stingy with the label for this step, assembling all the parts will make life very difficult.
We made a delay video of the router cutting off only one motherboard.
For this project, it took us about 9 hours to cut out all 12 boards.
Now that we \'ve cut all the parts off, it\'s time to start assembling!
This part of the process definitely needs everyone\'s attention!
Hopefully you put all your work on a very good label as this is a necessary condition for a successful assembly.
What you need to do at this step: The first thing we need to do for this step is to organize all of our work.
We made 4 out of 33 horizontal piles. 1-10, 11-20, 21-30, 30-33.
We also organized the vertical part.
Not that much, but we do need to pick a couple to form our first column.
According to the instructions we obtained from 123D make, we chose the upright 4 and 9.
Once you have selected the first two columns, you need to twist an eye hook on top of them.
Then tie a rope on these things and hang them from the ceiling.
We have an exposed ceiling in our store, so it\'s easy to throw the rope up, go through the exposed beams and tie them to the wall.
Once these parts are fairly stable, it\'s time to start adding horizontal parts.
We started, then stood up and walked to the head.
This part is easy to fit together.
The hard part comes when other vertical parts need to be added.
Remember before I mentioned adding a little extra width to your material thickness?
Well, we didn\'t add enough and trying to get some vertical parts proved to be a challenge.
We finally cut some big pieces into small pieces.
The puzzle game started here.
These smaller parts don\'t have that much trouble sliding into place.
Nor did they affect our structural integrity.
We ended up adding another support rope from the bear\'s nose and ceiling.
For my comfort, the bear wants to go back a little bit.
Tie the rope to his nose and we can straighten him.
Now that we \'ve built the entire word form, it\'s time to start cutting our steel bars and start creating a wire rack structure around it.
We decided to make our metal frame with steel bars.
I used a hot rolled steel bar of 1/4.
We bought it from the local metal store and paid $3.
20 feet long stick 25.
We ended up using about 600 on this project.
What you need for this step is: * safety is the most important in this step.
You have a very sharp band saw blade and your fingers are very close to it.
You\'re also cutting a lot of steel and it\'s easy to get distracted.
Make sure there is a proper safety margin between your finger and the band saw blade.
Also make sure to use eye and ear protection.
It could be a very loud process with little flin of steel everywhere.
* Since we didn\'t try to look for a structure in the perfect shape, like the Dome of the ground wire, we wanted a bunch of random-sized parts.
However, we do want some structure of size.
So I decided it would be better to make 4 sticks of different sizes.
We put some painter tape on the band saw.
Then we will cut all the sizes of sticks between the two edges of the tape.
This will give us a bunch of random size parts but within a certain size parameter.
Our sizes range from 1 to 1. 5\" up to 5\".
It is definitely time consuming to cut all these rods into the right size.
So when I started welding we had one guy cut the stick.
This also allows us to see which sizes of parts we use most of them.
Don\'t chop all the rods before welding.
You also want to know which size you are using.
We put the wood model together, the steel bars are all chopped, now is the time to weld.
This is the most time consuming process in the whole project.
It\'s a fun challenge, though it\'s great to see the cage come to life when it\'s built around it!
What do you need for this step: ** fire safety: we weld steel bars next to highly flammable osb plywood.
Extreme heat generated by welding can cause wood to catch fire.
Throughout our welding process, we never had a larger flame than the flame from the lighter.
We soon blew out the fire and no longer needed water pipes.
However, you want to make sure that you have a hose and sprayer at all times.
Welding safety: welding can be very dangerous if you do not take appropriate safety precautions.
If you are not careful, your eyes, skin, and lungs can be seriously hurt.
Make sure you have the right welding helmet, the right clothes and proper ventilation.
For more information on Welding safety, please click here.
* There is only one way to start this process, that is, from bottom to top!
The soles of the feet may be the hardest piece to do.
You have to create a profile on the ground around your feet together by welding rods.
Once you have this loop setup, you can start working and things get much easier.
After a little practice, you will begin to develop a technique for creating a screen frame.
What we did was pour a bunch of metal rods on the floor.
Then we will pick up a piece with a needle clamp that we think will fill the gap between the pole ends.
If it is too big or too small, we can hover the rod over the top of the pile until we find a bar that is just right.
Once you find the right part, you pin each end to the other bars.
For this part, you definitely need an auto-darkening helmet.
You will hold the pole in an unstable place and even try to lower your head down and pull the helmet and eventually move the pole away.
It\'s a very time consuming process, so put on some good tunes and go to the weld!
Once the form is completely en-
In a cage, you can delete your guidelines!
We put a little bit of time passing through the whole process in a video.
It\'s really cool to see the cage grow around the mold!
The bear is completely covered in our steel wire frame cage.
One problem, though, is that we need to get the wood out.
There is only one way to do it, fire! ! ! ! ! ! !
What do you need for this step: * Fire Safety: you will ignite a lot of wood.
All safety measures must be taken!
Make sure you have a water pipe and fire extinguisher ready.
Also make sure you are clear about all the buildings and flammable items.
The fire will become very hot.
Also, make sure you can legally have a fire in your area.
Before you start burning, be sure to soak everything around the burn area with plenty of water.
** So before we start burning, we want to make a small burning platform to keep the bear high.
This will ensure that the bear\'s back does not sit in hot coal and does not over-heat the metal.
We want to make sure that all the metal rods are kept completely straight.
We created this elevated platform using several stacked 2x 4S.
They stayed outside for a week and it was the worst rain we \'ve seen in years.
They are completely water.
Log in and therefore will not burn.
It\'s time to take the bear to our burn area!
The total weight of metal and wood is quite heavy.
So we invited a few friends to our burn night.
With 5 people, we can easily transfer the bear to the burn platform.
We took him out and put him on our elevated burn platform.
We make sure he\'s safe and won\'t try to roll it off the 2x 4S.
OSB does mix a certain amount of flame retardant in the wood.
So we need something to start the fire.
There are 3 options here.
Oil, kerosene or diesel.
In no case should you use white gasoline.
These fuels release a large amount of flammable gas.
If you pour any of these fuels on your work and then light a match, you will soon be surrounded by fire.
So don\'t use them.
In a predictable estate, it takes a little bit of time for lamp oil, kerosene or diesel to ignite and burn.
Once we put the bear on the fuel, it\'s time for the ignition!
Pick up a torch and start lighting the fuel.
It does take a little time for the fire to start, and you may need to add more fuel to the fire. Due to the non-
The kerosene we use is explosive and you can throw some there with any kind of container.
Step back a little.
Although the fire will burn, it will get hot!
When the fire starts to burn wood, ash and coal will start to fall off from the bottom of your work.
Spray the coal with water pipes and nozzles.
It will prevent your work from getting hot at the bottom.
Don\'t worry that there will be a little water on the fire, and putting it out once the fire starts is a hard job.
Just make sure the dress stays semi cool.
We also poked the wood inside with some long steel bars to help it fall from the bottom of the wood.
As the debris continues to burn, make sure that the coal falling off the debris is continuously sprayed to prevent heat from accumulating from the bottom.
Once the interior burns enough, it\'s time to put out the fire.
Since we have open feet at the bottom of the bear, we can actually pull out some decent unburned wood blocks from the bottom.
Make sure you soak the coal and metal frame sculpture itself with plenty of water.
The steel is very hot and you want to make sure every hot spot is gone before you grab the structure.
Once the dress cools down, it\'s time to get our dress up upright and give it another shower.
Ash is everywhere, so a little more hose will leave all the ash where it belongs.
Our project is almost finished!
Although we washed the bear down with a garden hose, he still had some black on his body.
So I\'m going to wash the car!
What you need at this step: We took our bear to the local car wash and gave him a nice scrub.
Washing a 6\' Big Bear will give you some interesting views on the car wash!
But it\'s worth it.
Then I went to a local park to take some photos.
What I\'m going to say is that it\'s hard for this bear to take pictures, but that\'s one of the reasons why it\'s so fun!
We finally introduced a wireframe 3D model in our physical world, which is as beautiful as I thought!
The work was originally prepared for a very special friend of mine.
We want to grow ivy around it and let the Ivy slowly create a \"fur coat\" on the bear \".
On one occasion, she saw the work, although it was considered \"too beautiful\" to stay outside.
So I went inside and went into the living room.
To get it in, we had to remove the entire front door from the hinge.
If we raise the bear a little higher, it will not be suitable for the house.
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