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the screen printing process - step by step

by:QY Precision      2019-08-23
Here\'s what I wrote for everyone who continues to ask me how to print the screen.
It\'s a long read, but it\'s informative enough to give you a good idea of what\'s going on.
Not completely detailed (
A lot of small steps are missing.
But it is a key element of screen printing. 1. Artwork.
It is very important that you start the work of art creation.
If you have a jagged or grainy artwork, you copy it.
There are many art services on the Internet that can provide you with screen-printed artwork.
If you fax them a logo they can redraw it for you and send you a file where you can make the screen.
Can also be created (or recreate)
Make your own art
Vector art programs such as Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, or Macromedia FreeHand are essential.
Using these programs will ensure that you end up with high quality artwork.
Photoshop can also be used, but this is more suitable for full color printing, etc.
This is a bad start, because there are special technologies that need to be mastered before entering this field. 2. Film Positives.
When you have artwork ready to print, you can print your artwork with transparent film instead of paper.
There are different types of paper for inkjet and laser printers, so be sure to choose the right type.
For each color you have, you will print it out on a separate film in the form of a black plate.
For example, if you have a red and black logo, you will separate the two colors from yourself and print them out, change the red to black, then print them, and then print black.
Each will be printed on their own film.
This is the so-called \"separation of art \".
If the colors come into contact in the final version of the logo, then you need to have what is called a trap or choking.
Basically, this is a small piece of art with overlapping profits.
This small margin is enough, so you can register the colors so there is no space between them.
You will also put a registered trademark on the film.
These marks are usually a circle that goes through vertically and horizontally.
These marks will be in the same position for each film.
This will help you arrange the art later so that the image will match perfectly. 3. Screen Making.
At the beginning of screen printing, it is called screen printing.
This is because the previous screens were made of silk.
That\'s not the case anymore (
Now they are made of polyester)
Changed the name.
The screen is just a wooden or metal frame with a thin mesh stretched and attached to it.
This grid has different counts.
Some examples are 83, 110, 125, 140, 330, and on, and various figures between the two.
The lower the number of entries, the less detail you can print and the thicker the ink.
So, at least when dealing with the right grid, it\'s an art form.
The actual process of screen making is very simple and time consuming.
Despite the use of a capillary film, the most common technique is the use of a photosensitive liquid emulsion.
The emulsion can be used under yellow light so you can still see what you are doing, but the UV rays are filtered out so that the emulsion is not affected.
Need a spoon coating machine.
You pour the lotion into the spoon coating machine and put it on the vertical screen.
Press up and pull up on the screen and you will place a thin layer of lotion outside the screen.
Turn the screen and do the same for the inside of the screen.
Turn it back and do it again outside.
You can \"expose\" the screen once the lotion is dry.
You need a good light source in the process.
We have an exposure unit that can expose 20 \"x 24\" screens.
It has a halogen lamp and 2 black lights that help spread (or even out)the light.
The exposure unit is basically a box with a glass top and a cover with a black matte and vacuum frame.
There will be light sources in this box.
Some people do it themselves, and the printers that work from home actually use the sun in the process.
It\'s time consuming, but it works!
To expose the screen, take the movie you created and place it on top of the glass with the correct reading on it.
Then put the dry screen on top of the glass and below is the film on the front.
The front of the film will appear on the screen.
When you close the lid, there is a vacuum frame that will suck out all the extra air from the frame.
This vacuum frame will pull the matte near the screen frame.
This is essential for a clear image to be burned into a screen grid.
At this point, the length of time will depend on your emulsion and the light source.
This is something you can talk about with your lotion supplier.
This is really a test problem.
Most problems occur at this stage, so it is critical to understand the process through testing, training, and trial and error.
The better you do in this area, the better your fingerprints will be.
Once the image is exposed to the emulsion, you can bring the screen to the rinse booth.
Gently spray both sides of the screen with water.
I used the garden hose with a sprayer at the end to work well in the process.
You don\'t want a lot of pressure, but you do want some.
After waiting for a few minutes, you can go back and start spraying the screen with water.
Spray on the outside of the frame, or contact the side of the film.
The interior will naturally be softer as the light has to go through the lotion to get to that side.
When you spray along the screen, you will see the image on the screen.
What happens is that no matter where there is black on your movie, the light doesn\'t go through.
Since the light does not expose the emulsion, the emulsion remains water soluble.
No matter where the light shines from the emulsion, it will harden and will not be washed away. Let the screen(s)dry. 4. Printing Press.
Although you are looking for a high quality printing machine, it is not so important to choose a printing machine.
To be honest, you might want to stay away from everything --in-
A unit and a similar machine.
They are wasting money.
Although you can print out the same good print with these machines, they are costly and will reduce your printing speed.
When I started, I was told that the 4 color 4 press was almost what I needed.
They\'re right.
I rarely need to print anything other than the 4 color design.
Later, as I grew up, I purchased more machines that allowed more colors.
But in the first 5 years of my business, I believe I have a 6-color job and a 5-color job. So it wasn?
For me, it is crucial to spend more money on the 6 color machine.
What you are looking for on the printing machine is a solid frame, micro-register and rotary platform.
You don\'t need more than that.
Obviously, the car
What we use now is press (
But these can go from $50,000
$100,000 or more5.
Conveying dryer and flash device.
To really cure the ink, you need a hot source to get the ink to 320 degrees.
If you can reach 320 degrees in 1 second, it will be cured.
If it\'s 10 seconds.
Just reach 320 degrees and you will.
The flash device is a device that you put on the platform board (
Arm you put your shirt on).
This flash device is intended to flash long enough in places where the ink is not cured and not damp.
This will allow you to print the color on the color if needed, and you will need it!
Many people use these units to treat their shirts.
This is unwise.
If you have a flash device on the drum, it must reach 320 degrees to solidify the ink.
This heat will eventually distort your platform and cause printing problems in the long run.
It will also heat your drum and when you put on another shirt to print, it will semi-solidify the ink on your screen, causing blockage and poor printing.
So I bought the flash and used it?
This is to flash the ink if you have.
If I print a color on my shirt, I don\'t use the flash at all.
If it\'s white, then I will.
The reason for this is that you print white on the shirt, flash it, and then when the shirt comes back to you, it needs to be printed a second time.
Give you a nice vibrant white.
If you print a color on a dark shirt, you will also print a white, flash underneath, then use the color you need to print a precise image on it with a different screen.
In order to increase the output, the dryer needs to be transported.
When you finish printing a shirt, you pull it off your drum and put it on the conveyor dryer.
Basically, this is a dryer with a belt that goes through the hot tunnel.
When it comes out from the other side, it is cured.
You can put some temperature bars on your shirt and go through the dryer to make sure the heat and speed are set correctly.
Raytek also made a hot gun and when the shirt comes out you point the laser beam to the ink and it will give you a temperature reading.
Remember, 320 is magic! 6.
Ink and miscellaneous.
The ink you will use is plastic ink.
There are so many manufacturers and types of ink, right?
It\'s good to find one and stick to it.
I can give you some advice that I feel is good, but it\'s up to you in the end.
You also need to squeeze.
The scraper is basically a handle with a rubber blade at the end.
This blade is the tool you use to push the ink through the screen to the shirt.
With so many Misc, it\'s better to talk to the vendor about what you need to start doing. 7.
Screen preparation and registration.
Your spoon coating machine is not able to reach all areas of the screen, so you want to tape off the area without lotion.
There is special adhesive tape to do this, but if you remove the packaging tape immediately after you are done, the packaging tape works well.
Just stick the inside and outside of the screen with tape where the lotion is not covered.
If you have a single color design, it is very simple to put the screen on your Press.
If you have more than one color, this is where the Mark needs to be registered.
After placing the first screen on the press, you will do a test print.
Place some ink on the screen and place a scraper on the frame close to the head.
Pull the ink through the screen to the shirt.
Next, put your second screen on the next head.
Align the registration mark on the screen with the one you printed.
Once in place, you can lock them and adjust the micro-registration if necessary.
Do a test print once locked.
If everything is registered, you can put a registration mark on the screen and then prepare to print. 8.
Your first photo.
You will work backwards when you print t-shirts.
The collar is closest to you.
After placing the shirt on the panel, pull the screen down.
One thing I didn\'t mention was --contact.
If you look between the shirt and the panel, you should have a gap.
This calls you off-contact.
You need about 1/8 between the screen and the template.
This will give you enough space to print and let the screen pop off the shirt.
This gives you a clean print.
Some people push their erasers and some people pull them.
Something comfortable for you is the best for you.
Personally, I always pull my eraser.
This means that when I pull down my screen I grab my scraper and pull the ink to me.
You want to have sqeegee in one angle, but not too much. A 70 -
Good angle of 80 degrees.
If your angle is too big, you will get a reprint and win? look very good.
If the angle is 90 degrees, then you win?
Give you proper pressure and give you a light print.
OK, if the first print doesn\'t work for you, you can print it again on it.
The registration of the machine will be the same, so even if you rotate the press and come back to it, it will still print well.
As with anything, practice is needed.
Make sure to be consistent no matter what work you do.
The firm grip on the scraper, consistent angle and fast travel will bring you a good printing effect.
Keep consistent when you find print. Good luck!
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