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the fantastic plastic cnc mill

by:QY Precision      2019-09-03
As a woodworking worker, I welcome the opportunity to explore new materials, especially those processed with most woodworking tools.
I have a friend in the plastic manufacturing industry who has endless plastic cut-off devices and I only need one project and another chance to use my homemade cnc.
The main part of this project is a material called high density polyethylene plastic or \"uckboard\", which is machine-friendly and can also be cut with hand tools.
Bearing blocks and router brackets are made of ultra-high molecular weight plastic with the same properties as high density polyethylene.
Most of this project can be done with saw.
There are a lot of drill bits and drill bits.
These are some pretty big parts that they think are scrapped. The owner of the company can only get 3 cents per pound, so go to a plastic manufacturer to quote.
The black material is umw and also the material we are going to make the bearing block.
All holes will be created using forstner or brad point bits as they are more precise and easier to align holes.
In the case of bearing holes, if you only want to drill to a partial depth, the drill bit leaves a mark to keep the smaller gap holes going through.
Cut 2 pieces on the table and the thickness of x-is 8 \"x 1\" \"X 13/16\"
Shaft: 4 \"x1\" x 13/16 \"thick for Y-cut 2 pieces
The AxisStack piece clampdrill outer hole passes through the 22mm forstener bitWith the 1/8 \"drill bit and drill through the first layer that they are now using under the\" hole 5/8 \"that they are still drilling for a month, continue down through the bottom layer with 5/16 \"bit.
Drilling in this way helps to keep the center more accurate.
Drilling in this order with a brad point or forstener bit leaves a center mark where you can continue to use smaller bit sizes.
Cut 4 pieces 3 \"x1\" x 5/8 \"stack and clamp 2 pieces, drill 1\" hole 15mm \"deep through two layers with 1/8 bit, drill 5/8\" hole through the first layer, continue through the bottom layer with a 5/16 \"hole.
Two other blocks are now set aside.
Assembly block bearings and rods: Cutting 4-
12mm bar to 13 \"cut 2-
To avoid damage to the rubber seal on the bearing, the 8mm bar to 6 1/8 \"umbrella bar is slightly ended.
Now place the external card ring in one groove of each bearing and pass through the corresponding hole until the groove is exposed to the other side and then connect the other card ring.
I used a assorted bag that you can get, it\'s imperial but found 7/8 \"for 22mm o. d.
Bearings and 5/8 \"work on 15mm od. bearings.
It may be a good idea to snap the tongs because they are very cheap.
As shown in the figure, keep the 1 \"drill outside.
I can use 3/8 high density polyethylene, so I doubled it to make the machine stronger, which also provides some assembly benefits for us to continue.
In order to maintain accuracy, the order of cutting and drilling is the most important.
I like to cut everything a little big and cut it out.
Similar dimensions are cut at the same time.
Inside and surrounding side: 2 pieces before and after 12 \"x 2 1/8\": 2 pieces outside the surrounding side 11 \"x 2 1/8\": 2 pcs 13 \"x2\" before and after: 2 pcs 12 \"x2\" base braces: 2 pcs 13 \"x3\" stacking and drilling 2-
Go straight through 12 blocks with 3/16 bitStack and drill 2 according to the drawing
11 \"parts drill 5/16 Central holes through two parts, drill 12mm holes through two parts, and leave 3/16\" holes in the surrounding area through two parts assembly parts, as shown in the figure, keep 3/16
Drill the 3/16 \"brad point drill through the front and back, just enough to mark the center of the side, and then drill the 1/8\" brad point drill to the depth of 1.
Assembled with 1 \"screw 8.
Drilling assembly outside the surrounding base: take a 12 \"part and drill a hole with a depth of 7/32\" take another 12 \"and drill to a depth of 7/32 \", until the bearing fits just under the surface.
Now you can stack the front and back and drill holes with 3/16 in the indicated position.
Finally \"drill to\" the center of the hole with 3/8.
Drill to a hole with a depth of 1/8.
Flip and install the base drill 1/8 \"gap hole and fasten it with 5/8\" 8 screws.
Now we can cut the angle after the drilling is done.
Cut 4 pieces 5 \"x 9 \".
Take 2 stacks and drill 12mm holes in the indicated place.
Keep in mind that you have a left and right part with a drill depth of 7/32.
Cut out the gap on the internal column also keep in mind that you have a left and right sides.
Now Stack 2 inner columns and drill 3-
There are 3/16 holes near the gap.
Stack and drill 4 pieces keep aligned left and right, drill 9-
3/16 \"holes pass through all parts that do not include 2 on corners.
This is a simple fixture I made for the cutting angle.
You just have to stick a piece of wood on the back of some big enough scrap wood that fits your oblique ruler slot to hold your side block and go through the table saw.
Then, place your side block at the angle position aligned with the edge of the plate and screw down some wooden slats to keep it in place.
Put all 4 pieces into it perfectly.
Now you can stack and walkthrough 2-
The outer sheet at the angle has 3/16 holes.
I almost forgot to drill 4-
There are 1/16 \"Motor mounting holes upright on the right side.
Cut 2 braces according to the indicated size.
Pass 3/16 of the holes through large blocks and 1/16 of the holes, and the depth is about \"small \".
Keep 1 inch holes to the left.
Assemble using 1 \"8.
If you are using a disc drill, you can clean it up.
Use the 1 \"8 screw again as the end hole and use the 5/8\" 8 for 2 holes on the angle and 8 holes on the support.
Cut and drill the Z back plate to the required size, drill the next 3 holes.
Cut and drill the Z top plate \"inch center hole\" to a depth of 7/32, then continue to pass through with a hole of 3/8.
Drill 8mm holes all the way.
The center hole of the bottom plate is also done, but 8mm holes are drilled with a depth of 5/16 \".
Assembly as shown in the figure.
Insert the screw bar into the center of all the axes 2-
15 pieces in X and Y and 8 in Z.
Place the large recoil nut mounted on the spring on the small nut.
When you pass the rod through, slightly compress the spring, now connect the 1 \"diameter end to the rear bearing block with 6 screws.
As far as I know, the anti-rebound nut is only applicable to the tr8 acme threaded rod. The rebar I am using is made by me with a cnc machine and will be on my website in the future, just a few bugs need to be solved.
With the fastening of the backlash nut, press the \"\" bearing to all shaft positions.
Drill holes in drawings as per specifications or you can use high density polyethylene plastic.
Cut the umw plastic into 3 \"x3\" blocks 1 pax \"or any thickness you manage to pick up.
In my case, cut out the center of the block with a 2 1/8 hole saw to check the diameter of the rotating tool.
I used the band saw to outline the extra parts in red.
Set your table saw to make the gap on the side.
Drill four holes in the back, drill two holes in the front, deep enough to pass through the gap on the side.
Drill the 3/16 \"hole, allowing the gap to be tightened to provide a clamping action.
Fix the bracket on the board using 1 \"10/24 screws and use 2-
1 \"10/24\" screw for clamping the router.
With forstner bit cutting into 5/8 \"3/8\" deep of 3/16 \"hole\" then all the way drilling 3/16 a hole then drill 1/8 a hole to connection desktop.
Fix the block to the X-bearing block using 1 \"8 screws and then fix the table to the block with 1\" 8 screws.
I have a red 1/4 \"ABS plastic 8\" x 8 \"I put a spoiler board on the table.
Who said the hook must be round?
I cut these with umw plastic and drilled a \"hole\" in the middle of the screw bar to cut the vertical slot into depth \"and the horizontal slot into depth\" to see on the table, be careful despite the use of putter.
I then drilled a 1/4 screw hole, a 1/8 screw hole to offset the sinking of the head, then drilled a 5/32 hole down, and then went through a 3/32 hole.
If you have motor shaft of different size, enlarge the hole in half.
For the motor holder, I cut a 2 1/2 \"tube 2\" length for each holder and then drilled a 1 \"hole in the center with a hole saw.
I then placed 16/23 in the hole and marked the screw position and drilled and tapped it.
I fixed the bracket to the machine with 5/8 \"8 screws and the motor to the bracket with 10/24 \'screws.
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