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mechanical watches almost disappeared forever. here’s how they didn’t

by:QY Precision      2019-09-10
Originally published by Joe Thompson in two parts of hodinkee.
In 1976, with the rapid development of the watch world on LEDs, LCD displays and quartz analogs, George Daniels, the world\'s greatest maker of live watches, was tired.
On 1999, he told my colleague, Noma Buchanan, that \"I am angry with the \'electricians . \".
\"Electrician\" is Daniels\'s disdain for the supporters of electronic watches and the predecessor of electronic watches-electric watches.
\"I am angry at the way they say \'this is the future\' in observing the world.
Daniels was angry and vowed to retaliate.
He worked in his native country, England, and invented a new mechanical escape device.
\"Daniels has been thinking about leverage --
Deviant problem [i. e.
Friction that needs lubrication
\"In most of his life, but it was the quartz revolution that put him into action,\" Buchanan said.
He wants to prove that mechanical watches are as good as quartz, so it\'s better because they don\'t need batteries.
Daniels had an idea to replace the traditional escape wheel with two escape wheels, superimposed on the same shaft, which he thought would make the mechanical watch more accurate and require less service. A new co-
Axial escapement-this will be shown to the electrician!
Daniels\'s reaction to the quartz crisis was bizarre.
This is undoubtedly crazy: in 1976, the idea that a new and improved off-track device would stop the machinery from meeting the wagon whip on a pile of historical scrap was laughable.
This mechanical watch is doomed, and everyone in the watch industry, absolutely everyone knows this-except George Daniels.
Daniels was really laughed.
But he will laugh at the end.
As we know, mechanical watches, despite their doom, staged the most astonishing return in industrial history.
This is a long and difficult process. (
It will take Daniels 23 years to meet his colleagues.
The axial capture mechanism is put into commercial production. )
But it did happen.
How it happened is worth it. length book (
Next is a major movie! ).
Everything I can offer here is like a grumpy Mr.
Daniels was angered by his colleagues.
Axis, is a summary of the plot of some major characters and major turning points.
In the quartz era, the first new signs of life appeared in mechanical equipment in 1978.
Osvaldo Patricia
Founder\'s gallery d\'Horlogerie ansiana, pocket watch dealers and auction houses are in Geneva, and collectors say they want to see vintage watches.
Part of it is nostalgia for the wind.
The watch is about to be out of date now.
Part of the reason is to realize that their rarity may make them more valuable.
Patrizzi decided to include a special meeting dedicated to the watch in the upcoming pocket watch auction.
This is the first time.
At that time, watches were the stepchildren of precious jewelry in the world of collectors.
People told Patrizzi that he messed up the auction frantically with his wrist.
\"What are you doing, ostado?
\"No one will buy these watches,\" they told him . \". They were wrong.
In his first sale, the price of a Patek Philippe calendar watch hit an all-time high, namely, CHF6, 500.
Encouraged, Patrizzi held the second sale of the watch.
Patek Philippe\'s perpetual calendar chronograph buys CHF18, 000.
The retro watch craze has begun.
Patricia began holding auctions for watches only through a new company, Habsburg Feldman, and later became an anti-quorum.
Other auction houses also noticed.
Sotheby\'s held its first big watch sale in 1980;
Christie\'s on 1981.
The recession in the 1980 s slowed the pace of the wine market, but it returned in the middle. 1980s (
More in a minute).
At the same time, in the Swiss watch executive suite, there are also some places to resist quartz waves.
George Daniels is not the only one. watch counter-revolutionary.
Some Swiss watch executives have the same blind belief in the durability of the machine.
The two biggest believers are Jean-
Claude Beaver and Rolf Schneider
In 1982, Biver, who led the watch division of the LVMH group today, conceived what seemed like a real crazy idea at the time.
Biver has just resigned from Omega, along with a group of young executives known as \"Young Turks\" who are frustrated by Omega\'s timid reaction to the quartz crisis.
Biver knows that Omega has a dormant sister brand, Blancpain.
During its heyday of 1950, Blancpain is known for its 50 Fathoms diving watch.
However, it still did some mechanical action during the quartz crisis, but the brand has disappeared.
Biver\'s brainstormed was to buy the brand and make it an expensive mechanical watch again.
He teamed up with Jacques Piguet, the boss of feldrick Piguet. A. , a mechanical-
The sports manufacturer of the famous jouée de Joux in Switzerland, he has a large number of mechanical movements.
In January 1983, they purchased the right to Blancpain name for a price equal to $9,000.
At a time when the global production of digital watches just surpassed mechanical watches, Biver launched a brand-new mechanical watch from a completely humble brand.
Everything about this plan seems to be tedious, except marketing.
Biver did two smart things, a sign of his career and a sign of marketing genius.
He discovered a founder for the brand.
Jacques Blanche is a watchmaker who lived in the Jura mountains in Switzerland in the first half of the 18 th century.
The real market is attributed to founder Po\'s publicity materials (
\"As he repeated in the past, \'We wrote a page today in tomorrow\'s history. ’”)
Too loud-bite slick.
But why is it rebuttal?
More importantly, Biver came up with an advertising slogan to describe the essence of the brand: \"Since 1735, there has never been a quartz blancwatch watch.
There will never be.
This is true enough.
Until 1969, no one had produced a quartz watch.
But that\'s not the point.
The slogan suggests that Blancpain has been making mechanical watches since the Jehan era. Jacques.
It boldly conveys the creed of Blancpain: we believe in the beauty, tradition and value of our hands --
Mechanical watches made.
If you want to buy a normal machine
Made a quartz watch and went on.
But if you value traditional craftsmanship, buy a Blancpain.
The bold counter of Biver
The performance of the quartz movement in 1983 was shocking. And it worked.
Sales growth. Biver’s pro-
Mechanical marketing is an early ripple that helps create machinery
The next decade of observation.
In the same year, Biver and Piguet acquired Blancpain, the Swiss Rolf Schnyder who made watch parts in Kuala Lumpur, and purchased another victim of the quartz crisis, Ulysse Nardin.
The company employs two people: one. time, one part-time.
Although the quartz watch has caused damage to the company and the industry, Schneider hopes to continue to produce mechanical watches and only mechanical watches. He had a slam-
Dunk rescue plan: a mechanical watch that can provide mysterious data such as the time of the solar eclipse and Eclipse, the real sun time, the main star constellation, and the position of the moon and stars in the sky.
As a feat of mechanical magic, Ulysse Nardin Astrolabium Galilei, made by a young watchmaker named Ludwig ochislin, Schnyder, is amazing.
What is even more surprising, however, is that in the first year of 1985, Schnyder sold 80 vehicles at a price of 500. New mechanical-
Watch entrepreneurs are the key to the mechanical revival.
But compared to machinery, the novice is py grime.
Watch agency led by Patek Philippe and Rolex in Geneva.
Their continued support for machinery, while other industries scramble to shift to Quartz, is vital to its survival.
On 1979, Philippe Stern, general manager of Patek Philippe, met with his team at the planning meeting for the 150 th anniversary of the company, which will take place on 1989.
Stern made a big decision.
In the year when ETA launched 1.
The observation supported by 95mm Quartz shows that Switzerland can watch machinery with Japan\'s quartz technology, the stern, and the 150 th anniversary of Patek Philippe.
A very special machine: Stern wants his team to make the world\'s most complex mechanical watch, surpassing 24 complications in the Patek Philippe Graves watch in 1932, still holds the title \"the most complicated\" in the world.
His technical team started the work in 1980.
The president of Rolex, Andre heineg, is opposite the town of Rolex and is also involved in the competition for machinery and quartz.
\"Andre heineg is a truly visionary.
His view is that the original very expensive quartz watch will soon become mediocre, \"Lucien Trueb wrote in his book\" Powering the Watch (
Shifu Publishing House, 2013).
\"This has happened with transistor radios, TV sets and pocket calculators,\" Trueb continued . \".
\"Due to the large amount of high-quality labor required to manufacture parts and assemble parts, high quality mechanical movement will always remain expensive and exclusive.
The inevitable fact is that the mechanical equipment can only tell about the time by writing the \"official certified most advanced timer (i. e.
, COSC certificate)on the dial . . .
Rich people don\'t need a tool to tell time: they want a beautiful and unique object on their wrists.
Therefore, although Heiniger himself authorized many years of research on quartz technology in the 1970 s, the machine is still the king of Rolex.
Quartz watches made of Rolex. But not many.
Andrei\'s son and president\'s successor, Patrick heineg, called the number \"insignificant\" in my 1994 interview \".
At Schaffhausen, near the German border, at the other end of the Swiss watch industry, chief executive of IWC Schaffhausen, juente brumlain, also insisted on machinery.
Blumlein was the chief executive in 1982.
The first thing he did was advise the company\'s chief watchmaker Kurt Claus to make a little change in a project he was working on.
Claus is a fan of the permanent calendar.
When the quartz crisis arrived, he told me on 1996: \"There is only enough work per week to keep me busy for four days . \".
\"On the fifth day, I will revise the ideas and designs.
Especially on the calendar.
When Blümlein joined the company, he was working on a calendar watch with automatic movement.
The new boss was not impressed when he showed it to bruemain.
The impressive thing is that it will be a calendar with automatic timing movement, says Blümlein.
Given that no one has ever produced a calendar-timed watch, Klaus can\'t argue.
Klaus was startled and returned to his drawing board.
He worked on the watch for two years, making drawings, calendar calculations and prototypes.
IWC has launched a DaVinci (
Tribute to Leonardo)
At the Basel fair in 1985, the price was as high as $25,000.
If the watch is wound, it will accurately track the date, month, year and phase of the moon and will not make adjustments in the coming 214.
At the Basel fair, IWC employees bet on how many DaVincis will sell.
Given the weak price and machinery market, many people think 10 to 15.
The most optimistic is 30 years old.
However, IWC accepted more than 100 orders.
Leonardo da Vinci convinced brumeli that the trend was turning and that classic mechanical watches would not, after all, be submerged in the torrent of cheap quartz watches.
Encouraged by its success, IWC decided to land on Mount Everest.
The company has set up a team to go where no watch maker has ever been before: make a complex watch for the wrist.
In the same year, the two established independent watchmakers, Sven Anderson and Vincent kalabares, created an organization to continue the art of independent watches and watch-making. AHCI (
Horlogère des Créateurs Ind é pendants, Faculty of Law)
At the Basel fair next year.
The AHCI display at the show became an important platform to showcase the work of its handmade watchmaker members, who increasingly fell into quartz-watch world.
Roland Murphy in Baltimore
The natural watchmaker is a perfect example of the plight of an independent watchmaker.
In the year of AHCI\'s debut in Basel, Murphy graduated from the famous WOSTEP in Switzerland (
Watchmaker for training and education programs in Switzerland)school.
Not only did he not have a job opportunity after graduation, but he did not have a job interview.
He managed to secure a position in Hamilton, PA Lancaster, as a product development manager for quartz watches.
Not ideal.
\"I\'m a watchmaker,\" Murphy said . \"
\"I hate quartz watches.
At the same time, interest in mechanical watches (though old ones) is high.
\"By the middle of a decade, the retro watch market began to recover,\" Noma Buchanan wrote in 1988 . \".
\"Prices are starting to soar, and speculators have parted ways with five people. and-six-
The number is a watch that wants to be called \"Five Big (
Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier, Vacheron, Aibi)
Let their children go to college.
As an example of a sharp rise in prices, a Florida antique watch dealer said a Patek Philippe, which sold for $50,000 in February 1987, sold for $70,000 to $80,000 a year later.
The retro watch craze has helped restore the image and interest of the mechanical watch.
Swiss counter-
However, the revolution needed was an increase in interest in new mechanical watches.
About 1985, they got it.
As we know today, the revival of mechanical watches began in Italy.
Italians like watches. In the mid-
In their 1980 s, they began to be fascinated by mechanical timing instruments.
They like antiques, but they are also buying new ones.
The look of the pilot-leather pilot jacket and sunglasses-was very popular among Italian men at the time, with Rolex Daytona or Breitling Navy timers and even a stylish proletarian Russian military watch, pull the band together perfectly.
The Chrono boom soon spread across Europe and eventually swept across the United States.
It is believed to have created the Daytona mania that has caused a shortage of watches over the years, and has provided a much needed push for the Breitling.
Breitling is still another quartz-Crisis casualties
On 1979, Ernest Schneider, a new boss, took over the financially strapped company.
As a successful businessman, engineer and pilot, he did a cosmetic surgery for Breitling while retaining the signature tool for the production linepanel look.
Of course, he also cleverly arranged for the Italian Air Force to wear the Breitling watch, a mechanical watch.
Soon, the Breitling pilot watch was hailed by Milan\'s glitterati as a microcosm of the fashion of the clock.
With the popularity of thin quartz watches, Breitling\'s busy and bulky mechanical timing system defines a new watch style.
The Italian watch frenzy has created a new phenomenon: Consumer Watch Magazine.
In the months of 1987, three different monthly watch magazines emerged --88.
It will also spread across Europe and eventually to the United States.
These magazines play an important role in developing new generation watch enthusiasts new interest in mechanical watches.
Italy\'s chrono craze has allowed mechanical rolling balls.
In 1988, Swiss mechanical watch production rose for the first time since 1982.
Their value jumped 17% to $1. 23 billion.
Roland SQI, a well-known Swiss industry expert at the time, told me, \"it is clear that the era of machinery is returning.
\"Then the annual celebration of Patek Philippe.
Perfect timing.
On 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150 anniversary in Geneva.
The highlight of the anniversary is the auction of 301 Patek Philippe watches.
The last one was the watch that Philip Stern and his team decided to make 10 years ago.
Called Calibre 89, it is the most complex watch ever made with 33 \"complications \".
It has 1,728 parts, two main dials, 12 small dials and 24 hands. It weighed 2.
5 pounds, as big as softball.
The auctioneer is Osvaldo Patricia.
Calibre 89 costs $3.
17 million, including taxes and commissions.
The whole auction cost a total of $15. 2 million.
Calibre 89 is a turning point in the recycling of mechanical watches.
It made headlines around the world, became the focus of the mechanical timing miracle, and introduced a watch term that most people have never heard of: \"complexity \"(i. e.
, Any function other than simple timing, called \"function\" in quartz watch \").
A sign that Stir Calibre 89 has caused is that the live broadcast on Saturday night reported it in the Weekend Update section.
Comedian and man
News anchor Dennis Miller noted that a watch sold everything for $3 in Geneva. 1 million.
Tapping his pencil on his desk, he got something to the effect of \"Yes, okay, three miles, I\'ll tell you what that means to me, the laughter of \"baby.
The big machinery of Patek is big news.
Two months before the auction, I got a preview of the watch from Philip Stern and Patricia in Geneva.
In a preview article, I wrote, \"the mystery of Calibre 89 is that everything about it is in stark contrast to contemporary timing, from its oversized pockets --
Watch structure, its nearly 2,000 parts, its 9-year gestation.
But the watch is more than just a memory of the past.
Patek\'s achievement is to create more than one with ancient technology.
Function watch and any high
Tech quartz timer
Calibre 89 is the best example of \"high machinery\": \"designing and producing mechanical movements and watches using new technologies.
One of the many challenges Patek faced in producing Calibre 89 was how to install 33 complications into one case.
\"This is really the most difficult thing,\" Stern said . \".
At the time, 50-year-old Stern put forward a 28-year-
Jean-old engineer
Pierre Musi, who is in charge of the project Calibre 89.
Musy is a controversial choice.
\"The old model is very negative,\" Stern told me . \".
\"They said, \'You don\'t make watches with an engineer, especially a young engineer.
Only the watchmaker-and only the best watchmaker-can do this.
They are a little jealous.
But Stern said, \"We feel we have to have the participation of young engineers who can build a complex watch in a new way.
They found a solution to the problem. many-
Complications: computer.
Standard equipment for engineers, but the evil of old equipment
World watchmaker
Patek spent $640,000 on the company\'s first computer. aided design (CAD)equipment.
Over the next few years, the team Calibre 89 produced 1,600 design blueprints, which enabled them to make watches.
Switzerland embraces revolution
Mechanical Manufacturing Technology-CAD/CAM, CNC machines, automated wire cutting, and so on-is a major factor in mechanical regression.
It complements the traditional craftsmanship of Switzerland.
Production process.
The new technology makes possible the birth of a new generation of high-complications watches, which were launched after the caliber 89.
In 1990, for example, Kurt Kraus and his IWC team delivered their world\'s first complex watch.
In 1991, Blancpain followed suit and became the second largest in the world.
Complex prosperity is unfolding.
\"The mechanical watch has Lazarus-
I reported in the spring of 1990 that \"just like returning to the high end market, this is a major feature of the Swiss Renaissance.
Exports of mechanical watches have increased by 44% over the past two years to $1. 5 billion.
39% of Swiss export sales.
Patek Philippe and Rolex are still making their own mechanical movements, and their sales have soared, recording the prestige, value and rarity of traditional manual manufacturing.
Swiss craft.
Now, others are following in their footsteps.
At this year\'s Basel fair, a new group of mechanical products was canceled, and many brands have shown automatic sports for the first time in years.
The recovery in the machinery industry may even hit the market. SMH [
Swatch Group today]
Plans to launch a mechanical sample this year.
\"I was wrong in two ways about this.
The $85 plastic watch with an ETA automatic movement appeared in 1991 instead of 1990.
Second, there is no downward movement in the machinery market.
Neither did smh ceo Nicholas G. Hayek, Sr.
The intention when he started it.
At the time, hayek said he was for the third.
Due to limited battery supply of watches, quartz watches are still rare in the world market.
He later told me that the real reason is that he wants to increase the production of springs at Nivarox in smh, the only spring supplier in the industry.
The number of mechanical watches in 1990 is still small, less than 2 million.
If the machinery is back, hahayek, who was once a industrialist, hopes to have a higher volume and a better economies of scale in this most critical sports segment.
In any case, automatic samples are a good sign for the machinery industry.
It is clear that the big events at 1990 Basel Expo are not mechanical.
This is Switzerland\'s victory in the field of quartz watches.
Quartz still dominates the world, and Switzerland has mastered the technology with a new generation of hero brands.
S. Gerry Greenberg, whose sales rose from $2 million in 1983 to $70 million in 1989.
Raymond Well\'s quartz
In the first two years, the watch output increased by 76% year on year;
1989 of sales reached $90 million. Gucci-
Since 1983, the sales of the watch licensee Severin Wunderman have doubled every two years to $0. 331 billion.
At the beginning of 1980, it was feared that Switzerland would become a vassal of Japan because of mistakes during the quartz crisis.
Now, the machinery is starting to take off.
To show people their anomaly, the Basel fair management can watch love letters and laugh at Osvaldo Patrizzi\'s auction of 400 pieces during the severe Festsalle ballroom 1990 Canton Fair at the Basel fair.
Nearly 1,000 people attended sixhour event.
Surprisingly, Patrizzi opened the auction with three Rolex Daytonas \"from the current collection\", which proves even more that the timing watch boom that triggered mechanical recovery has legs.
Under the leadership of Daytona, it will continuemania.
\"Rolex Daytona watches are still popular,\" I reported in 1992.
\"Crown jeweler Garrards in London receives 8 to 10 watch requests a day.
Garras distribution: Distribution of Daytona every six months.
In the early 1990 s, another mechanical heat emerged: complex heat.
After the 89 caliber, a series of wow watches from the first ten years of mechanical pioneers appeared.
These watches have complications. -
In fact, the combination of complications-
Far beyond the time meter.
In 1991, IWC released the world\'s first grand complex watch for $150,000.
In any case: within a few months, the company received an order of £ 350, which means that it will have to wait 7 years for some buyers. (
According to Swiss tradition, a huge complication must include a permanent calendar, a minute repeater and a time meter, which purists insist is a splitsecond chrono.
Alas, this is not the case with IWC. )
In 1992, Blancpain launched the \"six masterpieces of the art of watchmaker\", a series of sophisticated watches, followed by the \"1735\" watch, which will be six complex
\"1735\" is the second largest complex watch in the world (
Its time is a split).
Blancpain announced that it will produce 30 of them for $600,000 per unit in six years. They sold out.
In the same year, the Athens table published the astronomical digital watch of the three-step time series of The Final Watch of the Te Kepler, which began with the Galileo of Astrolabium in 1985.
On 1993, IWC brought with it another larger complication-Il Destriero Scafusia (
Italian of \"shaffhousen War Horse). It had a split-
Second timing, minutes repeater, calendar, moon-
There were 21 complications in the period and Tourbillon.
The price is $350,000, limited to 125 pieces.
The watch has 750 parts.
Kurt Krause, chief watchmaker at IWC, designed the movement using CAD technology. Computer-
As we can see with the 89 caliber, the auxiliary design has created a new world of mechanical miniature.
IWC introduced CAD/CAM technology in 1988.
On a visit to IWC in 1996, I noticed that \"nothing can be seen at Klaus\'s desk.
He uses two computers, two screens, an electronic pad, a stylus and a calculator.
These are tools for today [
Master of tabulation.
\"These watches are the headline of a new round of high complications, which makes it a pleasure for more and more watch collectors.
By 1993, Switzerland was actually complaining about the proliferation of sophisticated watches.
\"We feel the market is overloaded,\" Patek Philippe chief Philip Stern told me that year.
\"All the complications of Patek Philippe have decreased over the past year.
We care about quality, not quantity . \"
Stern believes that the quality has declined as the quantity has increased.
He said that when collectors saw the price of minute repeater watches from CHF 50,000 to CHF 500,000, they did not know what to think.
Patek reduces complex production, but there is no industry.
In the second year, six companies launched watches with tourbillons, which later became a hot new product.
Companies that do not have a history of manufacturing complications will soon be able to get the tourbillon movement from experts such as WEEE Claret.
In 1996, for example, Philip charliol launched a $110,000 tourbillon watch. Tourbi-
The frenzy has arrived. (
It will break out in the next decade.
More than two by one count-year period [2004-2005]
117 New tourbillon watches have been introduced. )
The revival of machinery did not cause confusion at the top of the market.
For most consumers, the old technology is actually new.
At 1993 SIHH exhibition in Geneva, Cartier CEO Alan-
Dominic Perrin made an unusual appeal to reporters to help inform the public, and even some industry insiders, that mechanical watches are different from quartz.
\"We got calls from some people complaining that the mechanical watch they spent thousands of dollars on was not as good as their cheap watch! ” Perrin said.
When this happened in Switzerland, a different mechanical revival had begun on the German border. On Sept.
1991, the original 15 employees began working at Lange Uhren GmbH, a new watch company in the village of Saxony grasut.
A new center for mechanical watches was born. -
To be more accurate, rebirth.
Last year, unification was achieved between East and West Germany.
This brought capitalism back to the communist East Germany and brought the exquisite craftsmanship of the watch-making back to grasurti.
As the center of the fine mechanical watch-making in Germany, the town has a long history dating back to 1845.
However, under the leadership of the Communist Party, after the Second World War, the rest of the industry became a huge collective, producing cheap watches, first mechanical watches, and then quartz watches.
Unity kills the collective.
On the contrary, five brands have sprung up in grashurti, producing only mechanical watches.
Lange & Söhne, glashtte Original and its sister brands Union, Mühle glashutte and Nomos.
The most famous of them is Lange.
VDO in Germany quickly resumed the business. VDO had watch-
Industry expertise;
It owns Yeger, Switzerland.
IWC Schaffhausen brand.
It lets iwc ceo Gunter Blümlein, a German, be in charge of the CEO of the new Lange Uhren.
Blulmlein and VDO attracted the descendants of founder Ferdinand Adolfo Lange, Walter Lange, back home as chairman of the new Lange company.
Their goal is to make
The mechanical watch that Lange calls \"great tradition\" has revived the aesthetic and technical ideals of the brand.
Over the next four years, VDO invested $10 million in the company.
The first watches launched in 1994: four watches led by Lange 1
Center minute drive, big date window and \"auf-
Power reserve indicator.
The others were the Saxons, the akakars, and the inverted Murray Tolon.
By the end of this century, the company, with its own unique style and manufacturing technology, produced 40,000 mechanical watches a year.
Fine Machinery is no longer the exclusive territory of Switzerland.
Their rise from the ruins of communism is another milestone in the ongoing mechanical miracle.
In 1989, Philip Dufour, the legendary Swiss watch maker, decided to make his first watch.
Until then, he was only working on pocketwatches, mainly doing the repair work.
The arrival of complex watches has kept his ideas flowing: he wants a minute --
Watch for repeater.
He bought CAD software and taught himself how to use it.
In the next two and a half years, he showed the watch at 1992 Basel fair.
After that, he told the Europa Star, \"I packed my bags and put my hands on the strap to Singapore.
Ten days later, I sold two more and received five more orders.
This gave me a real start.
I gave up the repair work and devoted myself to my personal tabulation work.
Dufour is not the only one.
In 1989, watch maker Daniel Rose left the treasure cover to create his own brand.
At 1992 in PA Lancaster, clock maker Roland Murphy is tired of using quartz watches at Hamilton watch
Left and launched his RGM brand mechanical watch in the nearby Mt. Joy, PA.
Also on 1992, in Geneva, 33-year-
Old Frank Mueller is on display for the first time at the new SIHH show, showcasing the first eight watches of his new company.
The complex boom gave birth to the boom of independent watchmakers, who often launched their own brands without name recognition or much financial support.
The \"independence\" campaign is in progress.
Its first big star was Mueller.
Miller graduated from the tabulation school in Geneva and was among the best in his class.
After making a complicated watch in private, he was in co-
Founder Vartan Sirmakes, the case of the Geneva watch maker.
Miller created a sensation with a unique retro style, reminiscent of 1920, using the big tonneau case and the Big Art Deco figures.
His signature look is his unusual cintre Curvex case, which is bent on three axes.
Miller is also a talented marketer.
Unlike most watchmakers at the time, he personally promoted his brand.
Adopting the name \"Master of complications\", he met with clients and was embraced by celebrities such as Elton John.
The marketing campaign developed by him and Sirmarkes created a new phenomenon: Celebrity watchmaker.
I attended the Frank Mueller event (
Brand name no umlaut)
One night in the greater Havana Room in New York City\'s 1990 s.
Miller flew over from Switzerland.
In a dark room, accompanied by the aroma of Macanudos, watch lovers enjoy cocktails and watch the Frank Mueller watch with bright lighting in the display cabinet.
Miller himself was not present;
We were told that he would arrive soon.
After a while, there was a commotion: Frank was in the room.
Hollywood Handsome guy in black high collar shirt and neon lights
Wearing a yellow jacket, he smiled on his face, received praise and took a photo with the guests.
Miller broke the old one.
Shape the watchmaker into an introverted modifier with a view as large as the Valjoux movement.
He embodies the spirit of the new era: mechanical watches and their wizard watchmakers are very cool.
Miller joined the army in his work in 1990 (
Prosperous economy, conspicuous consumption, celebrity culture, brand)
This has driven his rapid rise.
Later, due to a fierce public row with Sirmakes on the company\'s strategy, coupled with Miller\'s admission of personal problems that distracted the work, the incident suddenly broke out. (
He and Sirmakes made these differences public on 2004. )
But Miller is influential.
His business success
It is estimated that the company\'s sales in 2003 were CHF400 million)
After him, he launched Michelle pamani, a talented new watchmaker of his own brand (
Parmigiani Fleurier)in 1996;
Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk)in 1997;
On 1998, Vianney Halter,F. P.
In 1999, Juen and Richard Miller, and more in the new century.
On 1991, Richemont group held an exhibition in Geneva to compete with the Basel fair. Called SIHH (
Senior holojerry International Salon)
This is a long-term result.
The feud between Cartier CEO Perrin and the Basel fair.
Perrin believes that the monotonous atmosphere of the city and Expo is not suitable for luxury brands to properly display new products and receive retail customers.
After years criticizing Basel for \"the taste of sausages in the Hall\" and other diseases, he launched his own program.
He has little support from the Swiss watch brand.
There were five exhibitors at the first exhibition: three brands of Lifeng Group (
Cartier, piaj, Bomi and Messi-that\'s all those days)
Gerar Genta and Daniel Rose
Anyway: Perrin wants to teach the Swiss a lesson that they are now in the luxury industry, whether they like it or not.
Before the arrival of quartz technology, there are mechanical watches at each price.
But in the world of quartz, they must become luxury goods.
\"We are talking about high fashion and high fashion,\" Perrin told me on 1994 . \".
\"I think it\'s natural for a premium luxury brand to wear what I call a \'premium watch\' hat.
These are fantasy watches belonging to a world not Basel, but Paris or Geneva.
If you ask \"What is the best watch in the world ? \"?
They will tell you the Swiss\"
When you say, \"where did they make it ? \"
They said \"Geneva \".
Patek Philippe, Vacheron Denton, Cartier, Rolex, they offer more than just quality.
They give status, charm, Magic!
Perrin believes that this requires a new approach to the mechanical watch business.
Swiss producers need to renew their industrial mindset about outdated products.
Haute horlogèrie means a more luxurious approach to everything: wholesale and retail customers, marketing, merchandising, work.
\"They have to do that,\" Perrin said . \".
\"One day they will have to show the difference between a pair of Nike shoes and a pair of Hermes shoes.
We are the first to point out that there is a luxury business in the watch industry.
I know the future will prove us right.
\"In fact, the new approach has indeed led to a huge increase in luxury watch sales.
Another new phenomenon: huge luxury goodswatch groups.
The boom in machinery accelerated in the second half of the decade.
A quick sample: At 1995, \"Rocky\" star Sylvester Stallone walked into a watch shop in Florence and noticed a big one (
44mm, very big at the time)
A local company called Officine Panerai produced a black diving watch.
He thinks it\'s perfect to wear it in the underwater series of the movie \"daylight\" He\'s making. He bought 200.
Then 200 more.
Stallone, Peter\'s fans Arnold Schwarzenegger and Elton John (
He sent Frank mulalls to his guests at his 50 th birthday party on 1997)
Focusing the media attention on the watch has greatly promoted prosperity.
In 1996, Chopard was known for its successful collection of happy diamond jewelry and watches, and announced the launch of the first watch movement. The L. U. C. 1. 96 ultra-thin (
Call L now. U. C. 96. 01)
Appears in L. U. C.
Watch 1860 next year.
So Chopard is proud to join the ranks of Swiss manufacturers who have designed and manufactured at least one movement in-house entirely.
This title distinguishes these people from the boys in the Swiss watchmaking world. In the mid-
1990, the output of most Swiss companies is still very high.
As companies increase their machinery, most companies buy mobile devices from ETA.
But with the booming machinery industry, some companies are starting to do one or more of their own actions to get the initial product.
Literally \"handmade \")badge.
Also in 1996, Richard Page of San Francisco
Based at a watch retailer, the company acquired a website called the time zone.
Com from Singapore website designer.
It quickly became the world\'s most popular watch information site, attracting a community dedicated to the collection of watches to its public and brand forums.
It marks a new beginning.
The media revolution will change the information dissemination of the watch world, making mechanical watches a favorite that is unlikely to appear in the Internet era.
Also in 1996, the luxury goods group Vend shalme, recently established by Richemont, acquired Vacheron Denton from former Saudi Arabia oil minister Sheikh Ahmed Zaki Yamani.
In the next four years, it was the spark that caused the fire of integration.
1997, Panerai of Vend Homme. (
In May 1999, vendme me also received a majority stake in Van Cleef & Arpels, a Paris jeweler. )
Other luxury groups have also noticed.
In particular, Swatch Group.
It is the largest watch company in the world, but it is not a luxury. watch power.
It has a luxury brand;
In 1992, Hai hayek bought it and its sister company, Frederick Piguet, for $44 million.
Since then, Hai hayek has been focusing on his other portfolios, particularly Swatch at the low end and Omega at the mid end. (
To support Omega\'s machinery.
In 1993, Hai hayek bought Co-
The axial escapement of George Daniels
This eventually ended the struggle of watchmaker Sisyphean to get a watch company interested in his revolutionary mechanical off-track).
Richemont\'s move has forced Hayek to focus on the luxury market.
The same is true of LVMH, the world\'s largest luxury group.
It completely ignores the recovery of the mechanical watch, there is no watch brand at all.
Both groups are starting to buy luxury brands.
Omega bought co-
In the 1993 s and subsequent decades, George Daniels\'s axial off-track technology made it an in-The house moves. On Sept.
1999, LVMH announced that it will acquire TAG Heuer for $0. 814 billion.
The next day, the Swatch Group announced that it would buy Baogai and new Lemania for about $0. 11 billion.
On October, LVMH struck again and bought Ebel for about $0. 46 billion (
Including French jeweler Chaumet).
LVMH\'s crazy shopping continued in November: it acquired Zenith for undisclosed amounts.
LVMH acquired three watch companies within three months.
The buying frenzy continued in 2000.
The Swatch Group joined Jaquet Droz in April.
In June, Bulgari acquired the brand Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth.
In July, Li Feng shocked the whole industry at an amazing price. dropping $1.
Product of 68 billion-
IWC Schaffhausen and. Lange & Söhne. The brand-
End of buying carnival (for a while)
On October, the Swatch Group acquired the original and joint company of grasurti for an undisclosed amount.
The arrival of the new century, mechanical watches are clearly back.
Demand for mechanical watches and mechanical watches companies is booming.
The export of mechanical watches has been 1 from the low point of the quartz era.
From 7 million to 2 in 1987.
5 million in 2000, jumped 47%.
In 2000, mechanical watches accounted for 9% of the total output of Swiss watches, accounting for 48% of the total sales of Swiss watches, almost similar to Quartz.
Since then, mechanical recovery has become even more magical.
The trend of the 1990 s is further developed, more integration, more auction records, and moremech research (e. g.
Silicon element)
More independent brands, more luxury marketing (e. g.
Celebrity \"ambassador \")
More new media
Social media, blogs, influencers
More interested in retro items.
All of this has greatly expanded the market for mechanical watches.
In 2016, the export of mechanical watches accounted for 27% of the export of Swiss watches (6. 96 million)
Accounting for 80% of total sales (CHF14. 7 billion/$15. 0 billion).
The last point makes this narrative complete: in 1999, Omega has introduced a limited series of 99 DeVille watches jointly driven by the new movement
The axial caliber of the George Daniels escapement is 2500.
Omega boasted that it was \"the first practical new mechanical watch capture device that came out in 250.
\"George Daniels, 72, did tie up with the electrician.
Hodinkee is an outstanding resource for fans of modern and vintage watches. Through in-
Hodinkee strap to 21 years old with in-depth reviews, live reports and dynamic videos
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