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building my first bass guitar

by:QY Precision      2019-12-17
Introduction: Here is my first complete bass guitar build.
I learned a lot, made a lot of mistakes, read a lot of books, and sometimes just simply guess how to do something.
The project took place for seven months on the weekend.
I started reducing the details in my docs here, but decided not to cut too much because you need to understand that this is not a weak projecthearted.
This process is much more than I expected.
If you decide to build one, your steps may change depending on your design, tools, experience, familiarity and skill level, but my process may help you with some steps.
If I win the competition and win the grand prize, I will be closer to quitting my current job and focusing on a business to design and manufacture resale items.
Bass guitar included.
My background in computer, software, and manufacturing is the foundation for me to expand my CNC and design skills.
Master Plan: The first step is to plan what Bass guitar you want.
I have a bass now and want to do a very similar bass with only a neck with a smaller width.
I have a CNC router, but this is by far the most complex build adventure I \'ve experienced, and it challenges my skills over and over again.
I \'ve seen a CNC machine used to make the guitar body and guitar neck, but my plan is to try and process the whole thing-body, neck and bedside table-into one piece because the plan is on the neckthrough bass.
In retrospect, it\'s better to plan your guitar and buy all the components before starting your project.
I do this not just because I want to start with the wood I have.
However, not knowing that all the extra components and their dimensions did cost me a lot of installation time.
Go through the setup process repeatedly to put the guitar back on the router table.
It\'s a pain many times, but I hope it\'s right.
Tools: these are the main tools I use: table saw, planing machine, hammer, digital calipers, many files, many clips, routers, cordless drill bits, various drill bits, dremel (small digital scale)
Cheap plastic base at least)
, Painting equipment, headphone magnifying glass, dremel polishing wheel and CNC router with router bit are all helpful.
I have most of the tools, but I have to buy fret files and fret pliers for the planned fret job.
Other supplies include razor blades, carpet tape, painter tape, lots of sandpaper from 220 to 1000 sand, masks/respirator, rubber gloves, wood glue, super glue, clear epoxy, plug tape, fret oil, polished compound, adhesive tape, Blade, faucet and faucet handle (
Due to the installation process of my desk and the circuit board used to install the guitar).
You need to organize the materials, but more will be needed later.
Add some 3D software to draw the guitar.
You should also accumulate more patience.
I ordered the hardware and parts for the guitar throughout the process and will mention them as they go into the build process.
Supplier: these are the main suppliers I have used.
Guitar and sketch building: My plan is to build a neck
Through bass and bolts-on neck style.
I would also like to finish the 3D wiring of the whole length at once and then be able to flip it to work on the back.
The first step is to take my current guitar and draw it out with any size change I have planned.
Here is just one of the sketches showing the details I captured.
I sketch the back and the fingerboard separately to capture the dimensions accurately.
Drawing the 3D guitar: I need to draw the guitar in the 3D software so that I can export the drawings to a file that the CNC machine can understand.
After extensive reading, I decided to buy the Rhino 3D.
I went through some Rhino tutorials and started my 3D drawing.
I first import the picture of my current guitar into the software and use it as a rough model to make size changes as needed.
I took my size sketch and went ahead and drew the rhino until I finished what you saw in the photo.
I can export STL from here (
Stereo printing)
CNC software for 3D files on top and bottom of guitar and DXF (Autocad)
Document for planning a cut.
After trying to figure out how I will flip the guitar so that the back is indexed with the front, I decided to leave extra wood on the top and bottom, this way I can put a circular index mounting hole at each end of the guitar for tying the guitar wood to the board.
This will then allow me to flip it over the center line and bolt it to the board when I need to cut the back.
In my drawing, I place the center of the bottom cable lead hole at X = 1 \", Y = 7.
This way, if I need to remove the mounting board from the routing table, I can always find the center point of the lower lead hole and move the router X-1” and Y -
7 \"find my zero starting point for X and Y.
Here is a picture of the rhino.
Wood planning, preparation, and bonding: Note: Since many of my images have been deleted by the iPhone update, some of the images I want to include here are not available.
However, I do have some pictures of the original \"practice\" work in which I use the same common glue and craft and will include a couple who provide the craft
The center part will be the maple tree, which will be clipped in the middle by 1/8 pieces of walnut, between two pieces of Bird eye maple trees, with two small maple trees to accommodate the width of the head;
The outer part of the body will be Walnut.
I have all the wood except the one I had to buy in the center of the maple.
I chose a special walnut for the body as it has a nice Burr on the wood and I think it fits well into the design.
I used a shaved bed to make the wood on my neck big and flat.
I put my neck through the section which is about 7/8 thick as it will be done at about 1.
I stuck the neck piece first and waited for the glue to dry. FINAL GLUE-
UP: for the body part, I planned the walnut block of my choice, split it in half, cleaned and pulled straight to the edge that would stick to the neck glue --up.
Then I stuck it together until I stuck the wood together: I planned and marked where to put some mounting holes on the guitar wood into a single veneer plywood, used to place an index of the guitar on the board, which will be clamped on the router table.
These pictures show that I drilled 27/64 holes in the wood above and below the head stock, which will be outside the total length of the guitar.
I then use a \"tap\" to thread the holes on the mounting plate and drill the guitar holes to \".
After the guitar is completed, the plan is to cut off these installation areas.
Body cutting: Next, I install the guitar on the mounting board and fix the board on the router table.
I then exported the STL and DXF files in Rhino to the CNC software, created the 3D toolpath and cut the 3D shape at the bottom.
Then I flip it over and bolt it down and cut the 3D surface on the front.
I created a peripheral cut tool path that included leaving an index mounting hole on the guitar.
I was supposed to wait to delete this, but I was in a hurry.
This is where I started ordering some hardware for the guitar in order to find out some cut size.
The Gotoh tuner and truss bar are from StewMac.
After receiving and measuring some parts, I started drawing some graphics to create the toolpath.
I flipped it over and over again
Bolt the guitar to the mounting plate (top up)
To cut the truss rod slot.
I spent some time aligning the guitar with the X and Y of the CNC router to make sure it was almost perfect.
I drew the required slots in the CNC software and created the toolpath.
I broke my only expensive 1/8 vertical mill while cutting the slot.
As usual, I was in a hurry.
It took too long to buy a new one, so I decided to try a cheap dremel 1/8 \"bit.
By slowing down, I was able to complete the slot and insert the truss bar for installation.
After measuring the tuners that came in, I drew them up, created the toolpath, and drilled the tuner holes.
I removed the guitar from the mounting board and cut off the exponential mounting alignment holes above and below the headbox.
Next, I did some sanding to clean up any rough area where the mounting holes are located.
I also started rough grinding the edges along the edges of the neck.
Then I ran around.
A small piece around the top and bottom of the body to remove sharp edges.
I installed the tuners to see how they look.
I bought some Bartolini pickup trucks and preamp (
From Bestbassgear)
And use the software to extract pockets for pickups.
I measured the height of the strings on my guitar now, which helped me to calculate the depth of my pocket.
I found the location I wanted, created the toolpath cutting file and cut the pocket on the router.
I made my pocket.
025 \"is larger than pickup trucks-for customs clearance.
Pre-amp and battery pocket cover: I flipped the guitar and clamped it and took some time to align closely again on the x and y axis of the CNC router.
Since I have cut the alignment mounting holes, it will take longer to align.
My frontcourt is the frontcourt of Bartolini. wired unit.
I measured all the components and determined how I wanted them to be placed on the guitar body.
I draw things out and then roughly draw components with software and put them where I want them.
The next step is to draw the cut for the pocket, leaving the surrounding area where the pocket cover will be installed.
I also allow the area where the cap screws are placed.
I worked out the depth of each wound.
I did the same with the battery pocket and lid and created the toolpath (
The path that the router bit will go)for everything.
I purchased some backboard material from BestBassGear and created the toolpath for the lid.
010 \"is smaller than the shallow pocket where the lid is located.
Matt facing up, I installed the material to the CNC router table with some carpet tape and cut the plate cover, so I can use them to finally adjust the size of the pocket I\'m going to cut into the guitar body.
Electronics pocket: the next step is to do pocket cutting in the electronics and battery area.
First, it is a shallow cut of the cover.
Once cut, I fit both pocket covers to make sure they fit.
Then I dig out the deeper pockets of electronics and batteries.
I then measured each electronic potentiometer shaft and drilled six holes for them --
Slight clearance.
Drilling: The next process is drilling-one for the AMP Jack and the other for the front amplifier, between the battery pocket and the two pickup pockets.
Most are easy because the angle between the pockets is not too big, but the challenge is between the front amp pocket and the front pickup pocket.
That\'s where I used the 10 \"long\" drill.
I turn the side of the body, pass the drill through the amp jack and \"observe\" the angle, trying to hit the front pocket.
I was so lucky that it hit the perfect spot on the bottom edge of the pickup pocket.
Fingerboard: I ordered an ebony bass guitar fingerboard and binding from LMII.
I decided to order some purple color of blood Wood, included in the binding of the fingerboard.
Since I didn\'t have a dedicated saw blade to cut the fret slot, I originally planned to have the LMII process the radius and slot of the fingerboard.
But I \'ve been talking to a friend of mine, Tim from McKnight guitar, who has made a fixture to cut the slots on my finger board.
Because he had a special saw blade and offered to cut the groove on the finger plate, I took it to him after the plate came in.
This is a 35 \"scale with 22 fret finger plates.
I go back to Rhino and draw a 3D fingerboard with a 16 \"radius.
Next, I exported the finger plate radius 3D STL file from Rhino, imported it into CNC Software, aligned the finger plate on the CNC router, and place the circuit board on the CNC router table using carpet tape.
I used some plastic plates next to the fingerboard cutting: the next step is to cut the fingerboard to closely match the neck width and length it will be installing.
Since my plan is to add purfling and binding, I have to use the neck drawing details in front to adjust my cuts and offset them to the appropriate size.
So when purfling and binding stick to the finger board, the size is about.
015 \"each side is wider than the neck previously cut.
The plan is to be able to polish them flush after sticking to the neck.
I created the toolpath and cut the finger board.
Fingerboard bonding: then, I glue the fingerboard and glue all the fingerboards together with tape.
I took a razor and ground the blade tip with the same width as the fret slot to clean the slot.
I place the binding tape so as not to cover the fret slot;
So when I stick to purfling and bind, I can clean up the excess glue squeezed into the fret slot.
Finger board polishing: I don\'t have a special grinding block in order to polish the finger board;
But I do have some hard wood from 60 years ago.
I took a piece of 3x3x28 \"old walnut for grinding blocks.
Returns Rhino to draw the reverse 16 \"radius for the block, export STL to CNC and cut the radius.
I put some sticks.
Start grinding on the sandpaper on the radius.
Straight sand is hard so I align a straight edge wood with the center line of the fingerboard and then polish the fingerboard with 220 sand, 320, 500 and then 800 sand
Fingerboard inlay points: I ordered some pearl shards from the Grizzlies and I wanted to use them for the fingerboard point and the name inlay I planned for the bedside table.
I\'m not sure I can cut pearls with CNC;
But I put a pearl blank on the router\'s bed with carpet tape, drew some circles on the CNC software, created the toolpath, cut out all the points from 1 3/16 \"x2\" Pearl.
Finger plate point sanding: I marked the position of the mounting point and put the hole on the finger plate using a pilot drill.
While drilling, I have been using the back end of the digital calipers to check the depth until there are holes around me.
015 \"is lighter than the thickness of the outlet.
The next step is to use CA glue and install points.
Then I polish the radius block with my 3x3 and polish the dots down with a fingerboard.
Glue the fingerboard: then it\'s time to glue the fingerboard to the neck.
For my fixture, I used long sand blocks that I knew were straight.
The finger board is finally polished: after the glue is dry, I use the grinding block to polish the finger board level again.
Pearl side point Mark: I bought a small Pearl point on the side of the finger board.
Since the fingerboard has been glued to the neck, drilling is difficult for those located on the guitar body.
I decided to drill with my hand.
Bridge positioning: Next, it\'s time to set the Schaller Bridge (from Warmoth).
I arranged the position for the 35 \"scale and screwed it down for the time being.
Headwear mosaic: I plan to set some for headwear.
I decided to set the Pearl letters of my last name on a piece of wood (
Refers to the scrap end of the board)
Then set it on the headdress.
I decided to try cutting the Pearl font on CNC.
I created some alpha tooth paths;
But to make sure.
090 \"router bits will have gaps around the letters.
I was finally able to cut all the letters from a piece of 3/16 \"x2\" Pearl stock.
The pearls are inlaid on the wood: I have never had anything inlaid before, so the steps to set the pearls on the wood are very time consuming.
To learn more about the process, I went to read a bunch of books online.
I found the letters glued to the wood and tracked around them with sharp blade tips.
I took the letter off with a razor;
Then, by using a very small dremel bit and my zoom-in headset, it took me about 40 minutes per letter to slowly arrange the font with dremel to a depth just below the thickness of the Pearl.
Upon completion, I polished some wood waste to produce wood dust and mix it with some transparent epoxy.
Then I put some epoxy mixture under the letters and clip it on the ebony and let it sit down until it dries.
The wood is inlaid on the bedside table: I designed the shape of the wood inlaid on the bedside table and created a drawing and tool path to cut the bedside table pocket.
I polish the thickness of the wood to about 1/8 \", install it on the CNC workbench with carpet tape and cut out the shape.
Using the same drawing as the principal\'s pocket, I offset the lines.
005 \"and use it to cut the pocket in the bedside table in a slightly smaller depth than the wood.
I used more epoxy to stick the wood in the headbox pocket and clamp it.
After drying, I polished the pearls and the wood to the height of the bedside table.
Fret wire installation: it was time for fret installation (
Gold Evo fret line for LMII)
So it went back to the Internet for more reading.
I started with the wide end of the fingerboard and cut a fret line at about 1/8 \"wider than the fingerboard on each side.
I don\'t have fret Tang pliers, so I trim the Tang pliers with the fret wire cutter for Stewmac to clear the binding.
After I cut each fret from the wire stock, I turned them over and filed the soup at the end so they could be placed on the binding.
I centered these fre with a copper head hammer and knocked them in place.
I knocked them into the right place with a hard block.
Some were a bit stubborn, so they used a copper hammer directly.
Once installed, I trimmed the frets to the vicinity of my neck with a fret clamp.
Fret wire side sanding: I saw some blocks for archiving the end of fret, so I looked up some details online and made a block with 35 degrees on one SIDE.
I cut a slot on the block with a saw so that my file is pressed in.
I use the wire cutting machine to cut off the end of the Troubles and start the application.
I need to get rid of my troubles now.
Using the truss bar adjustment to set the neck height, I used the large radius block I made for the fingerboard grinding to level the frets.
Since it\'s not far from frets, I can do light sanding with 600 sandpaper.
FRET line radius: The next process is to use the fret file radius.
I mark at the top of each fret with a black mark, and then I start archiving at the top of each fret until there is only one fine Mark line at the top of each fret. Using a 3-
I grind the corner file on the sharp edge and I take the edge sharpness off the end of the annoyance.
I then polished the file marks from the end of the dry goods and dry goods with different grades of sandpaper.
The last sandpaper is 1000 sand.
FRET polishing: The next step is to polish with a dremel polishing wheel.
I use the coarse grade of the polished compound, followed by the fine grade made by DuPont.
After polishing, this gold Evo fret Silk looks really good.
Truss rod cover planning/Cutting: it\'s time to plan the truss rod cover covering the head rod.
I used to think about buying one, but couldn\'t find anything because the radius on my headbox on the NUT had a radius and I couldn\'t match the purchased lid.
After finding that the radius exactly matches the curve on the silver element, I decided to draw the side profile of the cover shape in order to find something acceptable.
I created some toolpaths with a piece of 1 \"thick walnut (
From the leftovers of the body)
Go to the router table and cut out the profile shape.
Cross cover: I wanted to make this truss cover unique because the bass guitar will be used primarily for contemporary church service, so I decided to make it the shape of the cross.
I made a drawing and toolpath for the cross, stuck the walnut sheet to the router table with a carpet, and cut off the cross section of the shape of the truss rod cover.
I did some small mixing and sanding and put it on the guitar bedside table to see if it was appropriate.
I will put some.
Later, the screw was placed in the strategic position.
Carrier paint: Sealing Machine, reducer, spring and dial instrument lacquer is Behlen product, I ordered from grizzly bear.
The first step is to polish the guitar body and neck, then wipe clean, ready to spray on a thin coating.
In order to prepare for spraying, I put the finger plate on.
After realizing that I didn\'t have a good way to deal with the spray guitar, I built a gallows-style structure with 2x4 and other wood chips I lay down.
I hung up the guitar, wiped it off, mixed some material to wash the coat, put on the respirator and sprayed a coat.
I waited for hours and added another coat.
Pore filling: Walnut has a lot of pores that must be filled to get a smooth surface.
The first mistake I made at this point was to think of Behlen\'s natural pore filler (
I have already purchased)was clear.
Opening the can clarified my misconception.
It is not clear yet.
After talking to friends and reading some extra stuff, I ended up buying transparent epoxy for filling pores.
I use LMII\'s System 3 epoxy to fill the pores.
After gently polishing and wiping the guitar, I applied the epoxy according to the instructions on the LMII website.
The mixture should be very accurate for epoxy, so this is where I use small digital scales.
A few ounces can go a long way.
I worked in a small area and applied some epoxy and scraped off the excess parts using the hotel room key card.
After 24 hours, I polished the level with 320 sandpaper.
It looks like there are still a few open pores, so I applied another layer of epoxy.
I had it dry for a week before polishing it with 320 sand.
Finishing: Next, I applied two layers of Behlen vinyl sealant according to the manufacturer\'s instructions.
I applied 5 layers of paint to allow the drying time to finish the sanding with 320-
There are 400 sand between coats.
Nut: it\'s time to handle the nut.
I measured the placement of the nut and roughly cut the bone nut material to the inside.
The final size is about 020.
Then I slowly polished the width to the right size.
Then I set it in place and followed the radius of the fingerboard to decide how much to add to the height of the NUT, Mark and polish the top radius and shape.
Then it\'s time to cut the strings for the guitar.
I purchased some strings and measured each of them to make sure the correct size of the slot.
I don\'t have a fret wire file and have exceeded the budget;
So I took a set of small files that I had and modified them where needed to be able to cut the slots.
According to my old guitar, I measured the depth of the nut slot.
After doing more reading, I figured out where the final depth would be.
I\'m a little shy so I can fine tune the depth later if needed.
Assembly: the number of days the music string paint should be placed on the guitar before polishing varies by opinion, so I plan to leave the guitar about 3 or 4 weeks before polishing and polishing.
Since 3 weeks will exceed the deadline for the release of this book, I decided to continue to assemble the guitar to take pictures.
I installed all the components.
Electronic products from pre-amp is pre-
Wired and adequate documentation is included.
The last setting is to install the string and confirm the setting height.
After 3 or 4 weeks, I will use sandpaper of various grades and polish the guitar to get it to the desired gloss, fully reassemble, and make the final pick-up chord Lego setting (
This is very close to correct when first assembled)
Oil the fingerboard.
Then-the serial number 1 will be completed.
Final comment: most of my challenges to creativity and ingenuity are areas of learning and designing in 3D software that I have no experience.
When I tried to figure out how to do the inlays and complete many steps in the process of finger plates and wear, my knowledge was also challenged repeatedly.
If you decide to take on the project of making your own bass guitar, buy as many professional tools as you can because they can work much faster.
Before building, be sure to purchase as many guitar components as possible to make accurate measurements of cutting pockets, holes, etc.
Be prepared to challenge your creativity, ingenuity and knowledge and enjoy the adventure as I do.
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