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Build Your Own Electric Guitar!

by:QY Precision      2019-10-18
Have you ever seen a guitar and wondered \"how did they do it ? \"?
\"I bet I can make my own guitar but never really try it ? \"?
Over the years, I have made several electric guitars, and through trial and error, I have learned a lot of useful tips that anyone who wants to solve such projects needs to know before starting.
This kind of thing does require some wood processing skills and some specific tools as well, but not all the fancy stuff that guitar manufacturers have.
Making an electric guitar is time consuming and requires several steps to be completed before the project is completed, but be patient and you will be happy with the results.
I tend to elaborate so as not to skip any steps or tips needed along the way and use images of other items I \'ve also done so you can get more in reference.
If you start making a guitar, you\'ll find it takes quite a while, so if you just want to go through it, you\'ll have plenty of time to go back and read the first round of other messages.
So I hope this will be helpful for future guitar manufacturers!
Tools that need to be inserted into the router and router bits (
I use a 1/4 \"bit\" skill router, a 1/2 \"bit, bit with ball bearing guide rail, a 1/2\" over bit)
Bit and bit (
A basic drill and drill bit with an optional 6 \"sand plate for engraving the body\" and a 1/2 \"Forstner drill for anti-sinking neck sleeves. )Jig Saw(
Any good fixture saw and fine tooth blade for cutting plastic control cover)Belt Sander (optional)(
For engraving the body profile on the upper back)
Mouse or track Sander (optional)Dremmel tool (optional)(
Used with sanding accessories for difficult to reach areas that need to be carved)Drill press (optional)(
I wish I had one that could make drilling easierClamps(
If you need to laminate your own body blank, it\'s better to have it.
A small, when you connect it, it is good to fix the neck in the proper position)
Soldering iron, welding and wire (
Two electronic products)
Basic parts and electronic processing neck (
It\'s hard to try to build your own neck and need more tools you might be willing to buy. )Body Blank(
Make it yourself with birch plywood or buy blanks from retailers)Bridge(
I tend to use a hard tail bridge as it can be easily bolted. Not much to it. )String rules (
These are used to secure the strings on the guitar and place them in small holes drilled on the back.
You don\'t need these if you decide to match the Gibson style bridge and tail. )Tuners(
It\'s a good idea to buy high-quality tuners because cheaper tuners won\'t be consistent either)Screws(
You will need pick-up protection screws for the control cavity cover and other various sizes screws for the pick-up ring and truss rod cover.
There should be screws in your bridge, but please check and make sure if you need to order)Ferrules(
Neck and strings.
You can replace ferrules with a neck plate, but I like the clean look and tight fit you get with ferrules. )Pickups(
It depends on the type of sound you want and how much you are willing to spend.
Shop around for deals. )Pickup Rings(
Most of the screws come with them when you buy them, but if you decide to use all the gold hardware, you may want to buy the gold screws separately. )Plastic(
You can get a piece of black plastic from Stewart MacDonald and use it to cut the lid of the control cavity. )Control Knobs(
These are available from many online retailers.
Get the style that best suits your guitar design.
Looking around for the best deals)Potometers(
For volume and tone control, you usually need to be between two and four depending on the type of sound you want.
They have different sizes and values, so the best thing to do is look up the wiring schematic online and see what settings you want to use.
Seymour Duncan has a great schematic. )Capacitors(
They also have different values, so find out what you need from the schematicInput Jack(
I like to enter the jack with the long axis.
All you have to do to install it is drill holes. Pretty easy)Control Switch(
These also have different styles.
When Les Pauls uses a 3-way switch, the Fender Strats uses a 5-way switch. )
Accessories supliersstewart steel Duncan pickupguitar accessories USAGuitar FetishGuitar accessories CentralGuitar Jones USAGuitar accessories OnlineDJs shopping GuitarsEBAYThere are a large number of different online retailers and ebay stores where you can find a lot of accessories and consumables, but these are just some of the products I purchased and are happy with their services and parts.
Note: Do your research on the parts and the quality of the parts you purchased.
I love getting feedback and comments from HarmonyCentral.
You may not be able to get a review of everything, but it will help you. PRE-
Before designing a guitar, you must know some important rules for making a guitar.
The first and most important thing is \"know the length of your scale \".
What is the scale length \"scale length?
\"Scale length is the length of the string moving between the nut at the top of the fingerboard and the bridge in the middle of the guitar base.
To determine the scale length of the guitar, you can measure from the front of the NUT, where the NUT meets the finger board, measure to the 12 fret center of the neck and multiply it by 2.
Add about 3/16 \"to the low e string and about 1/16\" to the high e string \".
This is called compensation, which is why you will see the tapered line on the bridge.
For more information, visit Stewart macdonnaldand.
They also have a Fret calculator that, in addition to pages that specifically help you provide a lot of free information for your guitar construction project, can help you determine the specific scale length.
Fret is the nickel wire metal raised from the finger plate.
I recommend buying a neck that is pre-made from a manufacturer that fits the design concept you want to go.
I bought mine from the American guitar parts company for about $70.
At online retailers, you can buy a neck for $50 to $300, but surf around and make sure you\'re happy with what you get.
If you are making an expensive guitar instead of a $70 neck, the guitar will tell you to buy an expensive neck.
But for me, the $70 neck works fine.
Once you put your neck in, you can determine the length of the scale and you can put it all on paper.
Before you draw the final template, I suggest you buy all the hardware, pickup and knobs.
This will allow everything to be placed where you want it and know how big holes to drill for the electronics and how big holes cavite and pickup trucks need.
Design and Planning preferably in advance
Plan your design philosophy so you can correct any errors on the paper before reaching the wood and can\'t go back.
Outline some design concepts on paper, and then, once you decide something, lay out a few poster boards to draw the shape of the body.
If you like more traditional designs, you can make your imagination wild.
For this guitar I made, I chose the PRS style body design.
To make the measurements correct, I extracted a photo of the guitar I was modeling from the guitar catalog, which was taken directly, not from the side.
I then zoomed in on the guitar by marking a grid on the picture and shifted it to the poster board where I drew a larger grid.
I know that the framing ring \"1 1/2\" measures 3 1/2, which is why I used to zoom in on the picture and get the correct scale.
The other way is to project the image to the wall and if you happen to have a projector I will track it to the poster board, but I like to draw my template with my bare hands.
If you want to come up with your own unique style, you don\'t have to use this method in your design.
Just make sure to consider all the parts on the guitar first, such as the neck position, pickups, and knobs.
Once you have drawn the shape of the body, you can find and draw the caves that pickup trucks and electronics will go to and set the bridge position for you.
It\'s good to know where the center of the guitar boy is, so you can make sure that the pickup and bridge are well aligned with the neck pocket.
I like to take a poster board, track the finger board of my neck on it, and cut it off so that I can properly place my bridge based on my scale length.
For the neck pocket, you will want to track the neck healing situation where you want to put it.
For this guitar, I have to stretch a part of my body to connect my neck as I am copying a PRS using the neck set.
I\'m using bolts and don\'t have a lot of neck pockets to use.
Next, make sure you give yourself enough space in the electronic cavity to install all the potentiometer and switches.
Remember to add about 1/4 of the lip that the control cover will be installed.
After your design is correctly drawn on the poster board, you can cut it off with an exacto knife.
Make sure you are as loyal to your lines as you can, so that once you are ready, you have a clean line to track.
Then lay out the template on body blank and trace it.
I like to cut the poster board into the same size as the body blank I use.
It would be much easier to arrange everything in this way.
Now you are ready to move on to the next step.
This is where your guitar is starting to take shape.
Once you have finished the design, you will need to trace it back to the wood that the template or the main body will use.
Pure Wood that you can buy from online retailers like Catalina guitar can run in the price range of $70 to $250 depending on the wood you use.
Some people will tell you that different Wood will produce different shades.
While it is true in some cases, such as the clearer tones of Mapel and the fuller tones of mahogany, you may not be able to distinguish between using wood of lower grade and using wood of higher grade and more expensive.
The only time I would splurge and buy clear wood would be if I were to use clear finishes physically, all the rest of the guitar would be part of the high end quality.
I don\'t have a lot of money for my project, let alone those expensive tools that can produce the results I want to break the bank.
Another clever trick to create your own body blank for $10 is to get a 3/4 thick birch plywood that is cut into a 4\'by 2\' board.
Simply cut out the two rectangular sections of the board that will hold your design and glue them together.
Be generous with glue to make sure that when you press the two together, there is no space between the boards to clip the heavy objects on so that the two peices are firmly connected, let them dry overnight.
This gives you a body blank of 1/2 thick, it is rigid and works very well for electric guitar.
You have to use solid color paint when you finish it, but you can\'t distinguish it from solid wood blank.
In addition, you will save a lot of changes that can be used for good pickup and hardware.
If you want to make the body a little thicker, you can get 1/4 thick birch and glue between the two thicker birch trees.
Before you stick them together, it\'s also a good idea to pre-take out any wire cavity in 1/4 peice.
In this way, you don\'t have to worry about drilling out later and ruining the top of your guitar body with a drill.
Once you trace your design back to the wood, you can start wiring.
I would suggest making a template first for taking the body out of a 1/4 hard board or something like that.
Professionals use cnc machines to carve and crush bodies, but smaller stores will use templates made of acrylic.
The hard board works well but may not last long.
You can also crush the body with your hands and forget the template, but if you mess up there\'s no way back, so be careful if you do.
I cut my template with a clamp saw and a fine tooth blade to make sure it stays straight.
Then, I installed it on the body blank with the small screws in the God of War, which will later be routed out like the neck cavity area and where the pick-up device is located.
You\'ll want to start wiring a bit outside the edge of your line or template so you can get your router bits to the depth template that the rolling bearing needs to follow it.
I use a 1/2 \"x1\" drill with ball bearing guide rail on top.
I made a few passes around my body and lowered the router 1/4 at a time to cut smoothly and easily.
Once you have passed the bearing next to the template, it is much easier to crush and eventually you will get a nice square edge.
Routing the edge, I like to give it a uniform curve with a 1/2 circle on the edge of the body.
You don\'t have to, but at least it\'s good to go around the edge of the body a little bit.
It\'s easier to polish after you shine on the body, and you won\'t risk burning on those sharp edges.
The next step in the neck pocket is to crush the neck pocket and the body cavity.
For the neck pocket, I like to use the 1/4 \"bit and leave the scrap wood edge around the body to provide extra support for the router when routing the neck area.
To understand the depth you have to break through your pocket, measure the total thickness of neck healing.
Then measure the height of the bridge from the bottom to the top of the groove, and the rope will sit in the saddle and add about 1/8 \"to it \".
This allows to clear strings on frets.
Subtract this from the total thickness you get from measuring neck healing.
This will give you a very accurate depth and you will need to carve your pocket down.
Be very careful when you crush your neck pocket!
You don\'t want to make it too big, otherwise you will leave a gap between your neck and your body, and you don\'t want to make it too deep because it may not be possible to fix it.
Collapse a bit at a time and put your neck in every time to make sure you get the right fit.
It should not be tight, the pocket should be a little bigger than the healing of the neck, as you will build up paint in it, which will make it shrink a bit.
The pickup cavity here is basically the same.
Because you don\'t want to go outside of your line, be careful about routing.
Pick-up rings tend to be thin along the outer rim, so if you go outside, once you have the ring installed, it looks like there is a hole in the body of the guitar.
Determine the depth required for the pickup you are using.
This is usually based on the length of the mounting screw.
You need enough space for them to adapt.
I also used 1/4 bits for this.
You can use a template if you want, but I can use it for free as the pick-up ring covers any defects.
The control cavity is as important as the neck pocket, but there are still several steps.
The best way is to cut the plastic cover.
Track the pattern you came up with for it on the plastic and cut it out with a clamp saw.
A fine tooth blade is used to prevent plastic debris, and a smoother cut can also be obtained.
After completion, remove the template and reverse, trace the mode on the back of the body.
Next, set the router to the same depth as the thickness of the plastic plate and narrow the cavity down to the line you draw.
I did this because the first cut was too shallow for the template.
Be careful when you do this and test if the plate you cut is appropriate to make sure you have a good fit.
You will then draw another line of about 1/4 along the inside of the cavity you route out, leaving extra space in the screw area you will use later to secure the control board.
Collapse the area in the same way and figure out the lines you draw.
When you start approaching the middle of the wood, start thinking about how much wood you need to leave at the bottom.
Usually 1/4 \"is good but be careful!
I was wrong once and finally passed through the body. Bad experience.
Now is a good time to drill holes that can be drilled for the neck, ring taking, bridges, ropes, control boards and cavities.
I wish I had a drill bit but I didn\'t, so I just used a hand held drill.
It doesn\'t matter where you start drilling, just make sure you use the right size when you put the screws later.
To figure this out, I compared the thickness of the Screw minus the thickness of the thread.
A good rule of thumb is to start with a bit that will produce holes smaller than screws.
If the hole is too small when you try to screw in the screw then you can move up to the next sizedrill.
Also be careful about the depth of your drilling.
A good way to do this is to use the bit to adjust the size of the screw and mark the bit with tape.
This will help you avoid going deep.
Before you do this, drill holes in the body and if that\'s what you\'re going to do, you can carve the back of your neck.
It doesn\'t matter if you\'re going to level it.
If you use furreles, the first step is to draw out where you want to place them and then mark the center of the hole the screw is going to go.
Then drill your forstner drill bit into the furrele that fits enough inside.
Usually, if you drill a bit at a time, you can know how deep you want to drill, put furrele inside and see if it\'s low enough, if you look at the body horizontally or if it\'s flush with wood, can\'t see the top of it.
After doing this, you can drill holes for the screws.
Use a bit with the same circumference as the screw including the thread, so when you put the scre in the hole, it goes through and you have to screw in.
Drill at the depression left by the tip of the Forstner drill bit and keep the drill straight as much as possible.
To do this, you need to fix your neck in the proper position with a clip, while you can drill holes.
Attach the neck to the body and gently clamp it so you can put it in the right position before drilling.
Make sure there is some protection between the clip and the body so you don\'t leave any marks on the wood.
A soft piece of plastic or a soft rag will work well.
Align the neck with the position of the bridge with a long ruler.
Do this on both sides of the neck to see if you Center it.
Tighten the clip a bit until the neck does not move.
Drill as straight as possible with the smaller bits you use on the body.
If you can\'t get to all the places you need to drill due to the clip getting in the way, take a few furles and neck screws and screw them to the neck.
Once you do this, you can complete the drilling of other holes with a fixture.
It\'s all up to you to shape the body.
You can carve your body as you like.
In my project, I chose to carve the body into a shape close to the way I made the guitar afterwards.
I used different Sanders.
I used a sander to make the arm profile on the back of the guitar, a dremmel tool with a sanding attachment for small engraving below the neck, the 6 \"sand plate attachment on my drill bit, for the body profile on the back of the guitar, there is also a black and double layer mouse Sander for the neck, smoothing all other areas previously carved.
One of the rules of thumb is that when carving the body, there is only 220 of sand.
This will prevent any lower sand particles from causing any deep scratches.
Do not use any electric sander in the falt section of the guitar, such as the top or back.
Use 220 sandpaper with grinding blocks to level these areas.
You can also run a slightly wet cloth along the surface of the body and dry it before the last hand polish.
This will increase the small grains in the wood so that they can be cut more easily by paper.
Sand in the direction of grain.
The drilling of the completed hole after you have shaped and carved the body and neck holes and drilled them out, after the holes have been drilled out, you can pre-place all the parts and drill the last hole.
Start with pick-up ring.
It\'s better to assemble them first and then put them into the cavity so you can arrange them and mark where you need to drill.
Make sure they don\'t bend when you line up.
I like to tie my neck so I can use it to line up.
I did the same thing with this bridge.
Be sure to check if the scale length is correct and aligned with the neck.
Drill the hole of the mounting screw, and then drill the hole.
When you do this, try to keep the drill bits as straight as possible, because you will go through the body all the time and you will see it on the other side if they are not straight.
This is when I hope to have a drill.
Next, you can move to the hole in the control cavity.
Use the washers that come with the electronic components to find out what size you need.
I use the 1/2 \"forstner drill bit used by the neck to drill holes into the jack.
It makes it straight and smooth.
Testing is suitable before you start preparing and drawing, it is a good idea to continue testing all the parts on the guitar to make sure everything is in the right place and there is nothing to correct there.
Blocking pores what you use to prepare your body paint depends on the finish you choose.
For solid finish, you will want to fill any pores with a wood filler or Bondo glazed putty.
I prefer Bondo because it works fast and the sand is smooth.
Use one of the plastic spray pots that you can buy in paint or hardware stores to keep the filling firmly in the pores and gaps of the wood.
Cut the diagonal between grain and grain to better fill the pores and gaps.
Use grinding blocks and 220 sandpaper to make sure the surface is flat after the filler is dry.
Only gently polish with your hand on the round edge of the guitar or in a hard area.
The circular degree of the fingertips can cause the depression of the wood surface, so stick together with sand blocks in a flat area.
Check the surface to see if there are pores or gaps left and repeat the steps if needed.
Then clean the surface with a sticky cloth to remove any dust.
Stewart MacDonnald has a great finishing schedule and I would recommend reading before you start the painting process.
You don\'t need to fill any pores in your neck, as the neck is usually made with a tightly textured maple tree.
Unless you want your neck to stay natural and unfinished, it only needs to be polished with 220 sandpaper.
I would recommend using at least a few layers of clear gloss laquer\'s sanding fixtures to protect the wood from dirt and dirt from play.
Paint information remember to insist on using the medium of your choice to complete the guitar.
Do not mix the paint with the base.
This will cause the paint surface to break or lift from the transparent coating.
For my guitar, I used a paint-based paint from the car store for a project, and the plain white paint I got from Home Depot.
Water based paint and clear coating tend to be more expensive, so I chose paint.
Make sure the surface is clean and free from dust before starting the paint.
Try to find the jar with the fan nozzel as it is easier to get a uniform coat.
When I draw, I hang my body and neck with a hanger line.
It prevents the guitar from touching anything and makes it easier to move from place to place.
I like to paint in one place and dry in another to avoid any free floating particles falling on wet paint.
I draw with a shed and hang my guitar in the garage to dry.
The spray technology will keep the body spray from 6 to 8 inch of the tank, moving up and down or left and right depending on how you set up nozzel.
Spray from 2 inch outside the body and finish Stoke in the same way.
Don\'t stop or start spry directly on your body as you end up with uneven build up or paint drops.
It\'s better to spray a light \"sticky\" coating first and let it dry for 45 minutes before wearing a thicker coating.
This allows the paint to be better attached to the body.
You can also install the guitar body on a square stick, which can be placed in the neck pocket so you can keep the guitar flat while painting the top of the guitar.
This makes the coat thick and uniform, but pay attention to the dripping water on the side.
After you have a good coverage, let it dry for a few days or until it becomes hard enough.
Check the surface for defects.
If there are any running items, you can wet them with 800 sandpaper and sand blocks.
Normally, when you are ready in front of your body, you will see if there is any grain that shows you may not be filled.
If any, apply a few more coats, cover it and flatten it with wet sand.
Once you have checked the color coat and are happy with the result and have it completely dry, you can move directly to clear the coat or add some racing stripes. . .
Or any other design you feel comfortable.
I made a paint splash on the guitar I\'m currently doing and it looks terrible.
And it\'s really easy.
I just sprinkled some black laquer paint in the pan, dipped a brush in it, and then sprinkled it down to my liking.
For racing stripes, make sure you get the auto-masking tape so you don\'t bleed when drawing.
Decide where you want your lines to go and tape them off.
Cover the rest of the guitar using garbage bags and make sure all other areas of the body are covered and recorded to prevent any unwanted spray from entering the guitar.
Spray enough paint coating to cover up the basic color.
You don\'t want it to be too thick because you will put a clear coat on top and wet sand to level the finish.
If it\'s too thick, it needs more transparent and polished coating than you want to do to level it.
CLEAR COATStew Mac sold nitrated cotton paint that works really well for guitar finishing, but if you\'re like me, you can\'t afford a can of paint for $10 a can.
Or, even though I haven\'t used any of their products, you can check the reranch and they are a little cheaper.
I use fine paint.
You can buy it at Walmart.
A can of supermarket with less than $5 is working well.
Use the same basic steps as when spraying color coats, keep in mind that you want enough coats so that when wet sand is polished clean you don\'t go through a transparent top.
Wait now.
The paint must be set for a few days to a month to have the solvent in the paint rise to the top and harden.
The paint will feel dry, but when you touch it you will notice that it may be a little sticky or soft.
I like to do a \"DingTalk\" test on my.
I used my nails and pushed it to the paint area in my neck pocket to see if it was still soft.
No one will see the inside of the neck pocket, so it\'s OK if you scratch it.
Once it is completely cured, you should not make the finish concave.
It may take more than a month to get completely hardened, but trust me, you\'ll be glad you waited.
For more information on all different types of paint or clear coated products and how to choose the one that suits you, please check the drum foundry and they have some good information.
Wet sanding you can wet sanding the sand with 600 or 800 of the sand, you can get these files from the hardware or car body workshop before you apply the transparent coating.
You can get the exact paper from Stewart Mack Donald that should be able to cut better, last longer and work better, but I \'ve never tried it so it\'s up to you
There are a few things to remember when wet grinding.
First of all, you need to soak overnight in the water.
You can add a little Murphy\'s oil soap to it.
It will act as a lubricant to help it cut better.
You can even soak the paper in the solvent if you use the laquer finish, but I use water because it is easier to clean up and can\'t smell the smell.
Next, be sure not to oversoak the area you have drilled.
If the water enters the wood, it causes the paint to rise, causing the paint to crack.
That\'s why some people choose a solvent to Polish because it\'s more forgiving in this area.
Start wet sanding with 600 to 800 sandpaper and gradually reach more than 2000 sandpaper.
If you use water, there may be a condition at your fingertips that is accompanied by a prolonged exposure to the water called \"lift up \".
Let them do it for a while and go back to work!
Once you have finished the wet sanding, you will have a very smooth surface, almost dull gloss.
You can polish the finish by hand or you can buff the finish with a polished attachment.
Stew Mac has a polishing pad attached to your drill bit.
Alternatively, you can get 6 \"foam hats from the auto parts store that can be placed on the sand tray accessories you may already have.
It is better not to use anything made of cotton as it will go through the finish.
The Stew Mac also has polished compounds that you can use to handle the vortex remover.
This is the expensive side, so I use McGuires Poland that you can buy from the car store.
If you use a polished attachment, please make sure you use a different attachment for each grade of Poland.
Do not use the same mat for each.
Also, before wiping the surface, remember to wait 10 minutes after polishing.
After polishing, the paint surface becomes hot and soft, so give it time to cool down.
You have to polish cutaway by hand and don\'t try to use the buffer on the edge of the guitar or cutaway as you will burn at the end.
I finished the last guitar in this mode: wet sand 800/1000/1500/2000 sand, buffer with track Sander with \"hook and ring\" I attached a polishing pad, it is manufactured by Gator Grit, McGuiars step 1 is made with McGuiars step 2 swirl remoremo, McGuiars step 1
After finishing the polishing, clean the residue left by the polishing with a clean cloth, ie: old t-
Shirt, watch carefully, enjoy the sun and take out the broccoli from between the teeth.
Dyeing finish View Master Dan Erlewine apply a dyeing finish to the guitar and do not use a spraying device or a polishing rod.
Now put together, you can put everything together!
By this time you will be very excited and you will forget about the electronics and you will start to string them up before you put them in, but it doesn\'t matter, we will get there.
Start with the bolts on your neck, just like when you test everything.
Then follow it with Tuner, bridge and pickup truck.
When you put the pickup trucks in, don\'t forget to route them.
If you want to minimize the Annoying hum from the surrounding interference, such as the electronic components that an amp can produce, SHEILDING Sheilding is a good way to use.
You can use sheilding paint that is a little more expensive than a copper tape but is easier to apply.
All you do is paint it and make it dry.
It also enters areas where the tape cannot reach.
To install the tape, you basically just have to apply it to the inside of the control cavity and weld any seams that may allow interference to pass through.
Welding can be a bit tricky as you have to lay a long bead along the seam.
Kind of like welding.
Here are some further instructions upon completion that you can install the flowerpot and switch.
Be careful when tightening them, do not scratch the finish.
Add the knob and take out the wiring diagram.
The wiring puts your exquisite guitar on a soft towel so you don\'t scratch it and cover your back with a cloth so you don\'t splash and Weld on it.
How you connect the guitar depends on the layout you choose.
Mine is a simple mono, a volume and a three way switch setup.
I have installed it with Les Paul on other guitars, which is also the previous two tones and two volumes.
Whatever settings you bring with you, just follow the schematic you picked up or get a schematic from Seymour Duncan.
They also have the teaching videos that Seymore Duncan himself made on Strats and Les Pauls.
If this is the first time you play guitar, I suggest you watch these.
Now that you have succeeded, you may want to make more guitars if you choose to make them.
Hopefully some of the information and links I have provided will help you get started in the right direction.
Guitar building is fun and fun at the same time, if you are like me, you always want to improve your skills and find something else to try in your next project.
I have added some pictures of the guitar I made at the bottom so you can see my progress.
So here\'s to have fun and build a piece of art that you don\'t need to see.
It does look good on the wall though!
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